The Weekly Eater
THE closing of Hanatei Bistro in 1996 left chef OnJin Kim disappointed and in need of a new life strategy. Off she headed to Asia and Europe to recharge and refocus. Her travels lasted three years and led her back to a small kitchen in Kakaako. OnJin’s back and
better than ever"It made me realize that cooking's my love," she said. "I spent a short period at a cooking school in Italy. It was more like reassuring myself. I had never worked in Italy so I wasn't quite sure when I cooked Italian cuisine, if it was the right thing.
"I found nothing's different. People there go by taste and what they like, just like everybody else."
She tried working at the Hyatt in Chicago only to confirm, "A corporation is a corporation. You can't do what you want to do. After running your own restaurant, your head gets too big."
So she's running her own show again at OnJin's Cafe (formerly the Meeting Place Cafe). It seats 60 vs. Hanatei's 160.
Food ONJIN'S CAFE
1/2
Atmosphere
Service
Value
Address: 401 Kamakee St.
"I wanted to do something I could manage easily, where I could feel like customers are coming to my home," Kim said. "That's the idea; I don't know if I'm doing that!"
People feel comfortable enough to crowd this little gem day and night. By day, the restaurant draws workers throughout Kakaako for sandwiches and plate lunches ranging from basic Kalbi Ribs ($5.95) marinated in soy sauce and sesame oil spiked with sake, to Crispy Snapper ($6.50) drizzled with lemon caper beurre blanc.
After this, you may not need dinner, but lunch guests are always urged to stop in at night for part II of the total OnJin experience. Hanatei-style opulence is recalled in a menu that recreates old favorites such as the Bouillabaisse de Chef OnJin ($21), still one to beat, with its mix of salmon, king crab, clams, shrimp and snapper. This is one of the few versions in town where one can taste the precious saffron. A touch of lemongrass gives it bite.
A friend swore off escargot ever since she tried to make her own and wound up with rubbery lumps. Kim's Escargot en Croute ($6) could convince my anti-snail pal to change her mind. These divine delicacies were plumped with burgundy, garlic herb butter and a dash of pernod, served in a ramekin topped with pillowy puff pastry.
If you skip the bouillabaisse, you might opt for French Onion Soup ($4.50) or Vichyssoise ($3.50). A bit of asparagus soup was stirred into the latter to create an exquisite floral pattern on the creamy surface.
Meat eaters will find peppercorn-crusted Filet Mignon ($19) served with Madeira sauce, Lamb Chops ($19) in an orange and black bean sauce and St. Louis Ribs ($15) coated in pineapple-hoisin barbecue sauce.
Crab Cakes ($18), though drab to the eyes, are also some of the meatiest and tastiest in town. A simple roasted tomato sauce was the right touch. This was served with vivid purple Okinawan mashed potatoes accented with bright yellow corn sprouts that taste like corn kernels with a touch of bitterness.
They enjoy filling people up with desserts, offering a trio ($5.50) of sweets that bear no relation to each other, i.e. sorbet, tiramisu and bread pudding. Isn't that always the case when you visit someone's home?
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
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