The Weekly Eater
YESTERDAY'S oxymoron, the "working vacation," is today's reality, and I guess workers now face the inevitable "working retirement." Iva Kinimaka's gotten a head start. His retirement plan called for starting a new restaurant, Iva's Place, which he opened two weeks ago. Music is on
the menu at Iva’s"I've been an entertainer for more than 30 years, so it's still in my blood, and I've enjoyed cooking since I was 10, I thought I could cook and sing at the same time.
"I look at it as retirement, but it's not, really. We've been swamped. I don't have a format, program or show; I'm playing it by ear day to day."
It's not that Kinimaka couldn't cook and sing over at his other place, Diner's Drive Inn, across the parking lot from Iva's. But there, he said, singing is simply a kitchen activity. There is no audience because customers simply pick up their fast-food plates and leave.
IVA'S PLACE
Food
Service
Atmosphere
Value
Address: 1311 N. King St. (between post office and Diner's)
Iva's Place is more of a home-style haven. He says he's ready to go, with a cordless microphone, but no amplification is needed in the small room. The restaurant seats up to 49, but feels a lot cozier. Other customers will peek at what you're eating and may ask you to name that tune playing on the radio, or start a singalong themselves.Kinimaka's right there, dishing out Beef Stew ($3) and Canned Corned Beef with Onion ($2.50) like mom used to make. And the kaukau's cheap. A quarter cup of quarter-sized Opihi from the Big Island, prepared poke style with limu, goes for $2.60. On a first visit, two of us wahine pigged out on food for four at a cost of $20.
That's the Diner's impact. Some overlap makes for low overhead. You can get one of Kinimaka's signature smoky flavored Ham Hock or Turkey Tail Laulau ($3) for the same price at both eateries, and, he says, "If I'm low on anything, need a dishwasher or extra help, I can just give a call and they're here in two seconds."
The current menu features a lot of a la carte items, but that's subject to change as he finds what works. The lone Hawaiian plate, available to the end of the month, features Kalua Pig, Squid Lu'au, Chicken Long Rice, Lomi Salmon, Poi, Rice, a slice of Sweet Potato, Haupia and a can of Pepsi for $6.95.
A bowl of soupy, beefy Lu'au Stew is $2.50. Thick cuts of Pulehu Shortribs ($3.50) can be tough to devour, requiring some gnawing and gnashing. Lomi Aku ($2.50) is something you don't find in too many places. The fish is massaged with the requisite Hawaiian salt, limu, kukui nut and green onion, and, though great by itself, goes even better with poi.
The Squid Lu'au ($2.25) I found overly sweet, but Kinimaka is the first to admit the dishes don't always come out the same every time. He's prone to experimentation and will likely be adding more vegetarian foods for those in need of healthy Hawaiian food.
Iva's Place will mark its grand opening at 11 a.m. Oct. 16 with a blessing, and perhaps, a little music.
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
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