Food, Wine & Beer

OKTOBERFEST

ALFRED'S "CIVILIZED" OKTOBERFEST
955-5353
"Tradition und Gemutlichkeit" through Oct. 9 at Alfred's restaurant.

Chef Alfred Vollenweider will prepare a feast of German favorites including Smoked Black Forest Ham and Milk-Fed Veal sauteed with Wild Mushrooms. Also being served are Roast Beef simmered in Red Wine Sauce; Venison Medallions; Smoked, Roasted or Grilled Tender Pork Loin; Veal Scaloppini; German Bread Pudding and much more.

Call for reservations.

29TH ANNUAL BAVARIAN FESTIVAL
955-4811
Featuring authentic German food, spirits, and entertainment in the Ala Moana Hotel, through Oct. 3.

Executive Chef Siegbert Wendler will prepare German Sausage sandwiches; Saurbraten with Homemade Dumplings; Smoked Pork Loin; Black Forest layer cake and more.

Admission: $5 Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday; $8 Friday and Saturday. Additional charges for menu items.

"BRATWURST, BEER AND OOM-PAH"
947-7874
6-11 p.m. Oct. 7-8 at the Hilton Hawaiian Village. Repertoire of polkas, lively waltzes and songs featuring Swiss yodeling performed by Lisa Ward.

A traditional German buffet will be served. The all-you-can-eat menu includes pork and veal bratwurst with fried onions, smoked kielbasa, smoked pork loin, braised sauerkraut, potato dumplings and cherry and apple strudel with vanilla sauce.

Dinner and entertainment is $22. A $3 cover charge will be assessed for guests not having the buffet.

"A GERMAN WINEMAKER DINNER"
941-2254
6 p.m. Oct. 5 and 6. Dr. Baron Von Hobegetling, winemaker and owner of Germany's oldest castle vineyard, will present a selection of wines to be paired with special German cuisine prepared by Chef Jean Luc Voegele at Bali By-the-Sea.

Dinner costs $55 per person and includes both a reception and the four-course meal.

On the menu are Spinach and Haricot Vert Salad; Wild Mushrooms and Sweet Bread Ragout and Fresh Asparagus on Puff Pastry; and Duck Consomme with Bone Marrow Dumplings. These dishes will be followed by Pan Fried Salmon on Lentil Casserole and Braised Chicken with Wild Mushrooms and Reisling Wine Sauce. A selection of complementary wines will be poured.

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VALUES ON THE VINE

AS Master Sommelier Chuck Furuya points out below, U.S. wine production has seen explosive growth in the past 15 years. It has reached the point were some level of wine production occurs in nearly every state in the union, Hawaii included.

"California is still No. 1 in terms of volume and quality, though other pockets across the country are producing some good stuff," said Jay Kam, president Vintage Wine Cellar.

He recommends two value-priced California wines for this month's look at domestic wine production. Despite rising prices, the good values are still out there in California wines, said Kam, but you have to look. "There are a lot of wines in the $10 category, but to pick the ones that stand above the rest is the trick," he said.

Furuya also focused his discussion of domestic wines on California, as those wines are the most readily available in Hawaii.

He added that Oregon, Washington state and New York also produce good wines that sometimes can be found here.

Traveling wine fans who find themselves in Virginia, Idaho and Texas may want to make time to check out those wineries, said Furuya. And Missouri is a special treat for the wine lover/history buff, he said, being home to America's oldest federally approved vintacultural area, which is a recognition of quality wine production in a region.

For more on what domestic producers have to offer, read on.

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Richard Field
OWNER OF R. FIELD WINE CO.

We tend to think of any wines produced in the United States as domestic. Wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Merlot are part of a group of grape types know as vitis vinifera. Vitis vinifera originated in Europe and as such are not true domestic wines. The only true domestic wines are varieties like Concord and Seyvelle Blanc, which are found predominantly on the East Coast. But among the best of American wines, Zinfandel must be included. Regardless of the controversy about its origins, there is no place else in the world with significant production.

Wines made from grapes such as Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Pinot Noir and even Barbera are becoming more and more popular with Americans. They have textures and fruit levels that make them easier to enjoy without significant bottle aging and they tend to go better with a variety of foods. Sangiovese will definitely garner much more attention. Typically lighter in flavor than wines like Cabernet and Merlot, it is an eminently drinkable partner to lighter meats and tomato pastas.

Ravenswood Vinter's Reserve Zinfandel 1997, California, $11.99: Ravenswood Vinter's Reserve Zinfandel is a good example of a good-tasting red wine at an affordable price. This winery is one of the most famous producers of this grape. Medium intense blackberry jam with light oak flavors and a smooth, easy drinkability shows why this wine is such a favorite.

Rabbit Ridge Sangiovese 1997, Sonoma, $13.99: Rabbit Ridge Sangiovese has gotten rave reviews from several national reviewers. This is a silky smooth cherry and cream styled wine. You can feel the expensive oak, which gives much of its richness and complexity. You'd be hard-pressed to find a better example of a wonderful and affordable domestic Sangiovese.

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Lyle Fujioka
OWNER OF FUJIOKA'S WINE MERCHANTS

A. Mano Primitivo 1998, Italy, $9.95: Uncovering new and exciting wines is like panning for gold -- we do an awful lot of panning (tasting), to find one nugget. We do a lot of prospecting in Italy and it came as quite a surprise to strike California gold there. The story unfolds this way: Californian Mark Shannon goes to Puglia, purchases a winery, vinifies the region's Primitivo varietal (mother to Zin?) California-style and ends up with an Italian Zinfandel.

No fool's gold here. Bold, smokey and intensely ripe berry aromas and flavors capture the senses immediately and hold on without cerebral complication. While A. Mano begins with a California flair, its earthy satisfying finish speaks uncompromising Italian. This wine will rock your palate with a 24-karat experience.

Rabbit Ridge Sangiovese 1997, Sonoma, $13.95: Several years ago, winemaker/proprietor Eric Russell came hopping along and gave us a preview of his new Sangiovese project. While we've questioned the price-to-quality ratio of many of our domestic Italian varietal programs, Eric's wine really struck a fun chord with us and we gleefully agreed to launch it into the market. And what a runaway success the 1994 and 1995 vintages turned out to be. With the 1997 release, the fun begins again.

This Sangiovese exudes spicy ripe cherries with swirls of sweet vanilla. Ripe jammy fruit loads the front, mid and end of the palate; the tannins are soft and the acidity level provides just enough for a wonderful pairing with vegetarian lasagna.

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Chuck Furuya
PRESIDENT OF FINE WINE IMPORTS

We have had a real boom in this country over the last 15 years in terms of wine production. Imagine, there are more than 40 states that are today producing wines.

Here are some thoughts and trends to consider going into the new millennium focusing on California wines:

Check out different varietals. There will be a growing niche of other grape varieties, including some very interesting ones. Taste and select carefully. Most will be value driven:

Ca' del Solo Malvasia Bianca
Pellegrini Carignane "Old Vines"

Check out some of the newly discovered nooks and crannies of California.

Some (like Lodi and the Delta) will be more apropos for value oriented wines:

Makor Zinfandel
Bogle Merlot

Others have the promise to produce world-class wines, like Anderson Valley (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), Mendocino (Zinfandel), Sonoma Coast (Pinot Noir), Santa Ynez Valley (Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc), Santa Cruz (Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon) and Paso Robles (Cabernet Sauvignon):

Edmeades Pinot Noir
Vita Nova Cabernet Franc
Justin Cabernet Sauvignon

Learn about winemakers. Look for such names as Bryan Babcock, Mia Klien, Ehren Jordan, Ted Lemon, Van Williamson and Chris Whitcraft to name a few. On the horizon look for up and comers like Bob Foley, Greg LaFolette and Jim Adelman:

Laurel Glen Reds (Patrick Campbell)
Chateau Woltner Chardonnay Howell Mountain (Ted Lemon)
Castle Rock Merlot (August Briggs)

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Jay Kam
PRESIDENT OF VINTAGE WINE CELLAR

1996 Diamond Grove Zinfandel, California, $9.99: Even Zinfandel is not immune to the rising prices of California wine, so it is something special when you find a good one for a great price like Diamond Grove's. Zinfandel is a red grape that produces a rich, ripe berry wine integrated with a spicy tinge. It is perfect for meats and especially barbecues (how about some at your next University of Hawaii tailgate party?). Zinfandels come in a multitude of styles ranging from light and fruity to intense and full-bodied. This is a medium-bodied example with good fruit and supple tannins. It is a new arrival and we have customers buying this by the case already.

Marietta Old Vine Red Lot No. 23, California, $9.99: Marietta is "old style." Before Prohibition, immigrants to the United States planted different grape varietals -- most commonly Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Gamay, Carignane and Cabernet Sauvignon -- mixed randomly among each other in the vineyards.

Some of these vineyards survived Prohibition and today make some of the best wines. We call these vineyards "field blends" because no one really knows what grape varietals, and in what proportion, are planted in them.

Marietta has replicated an old- style wine by making its own blend of red grapes primarily consisting of Zinfandel along with Petite Syrah and Carignane. The result is an approachable and easy-drinking wine with forward cherry and plum fruit followed by a tad of black pepper. Perfect with barbecued ribs and old-style food like pizza and pasta. We think you'll agree that Marietta is old style when it comes to price too.

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MORSELS

Birthday bash: Chef Mavro restaurant celebrates its first anniversary with a benefit dinner Oct. 27 featuring a guest appearance by Mark Franz of Farallon in San Francisco.

Franz will prepare a signature dish, Roast Wild Turbot with Two Wine Braised Onions, Foie Gras and Truffle Coulis. Chef George Mavrothalassitis will prepare Fillet of Moi, Pink Lentils and Wilted Baby Romaine.

Also on the menu: Seared Scallops with Asian Slaw, Kiawe Smoked Squab and a dessert, Tarte Tropezienne.

Cost is $150. Half of the proceeds will be used to establish a scholarship at Kapiolani Community College's Culinary Institute of the Pacific; the other half will go to the James Beard Foundation.

For reservations call 944-4714.

Coffee lovers, crank it up: If you've got a favorite recipe that depends on a hearty blast of caffeine, fame awaits at the Kona Coffee Cultural Festival. Just make sure the caffeine comes in the form of a 1/2 cup minimum of 100 percent Kona coffee.

Categories are beverage, entree and dessert, and there are professional and amateur levels. Entries are judged on taste, presentation and originality.

Best-of-Show prize is a trip for two to Molokai Ranch and a $300 KTA Super Stores gift certificate. Winners at professional and amateur levels receive $150 KTA gift certificates.

Judging will be Nov. 12 at Keauhou Shopping Center, during the annual coffee festival.

For information call Casey Nonaka (professional division), (808) 322-8801, or Trish Benson (amateur division), (808) 322-3928.

Scholarships in food service: The National Restaurant Association is offering scholarships to high school and college students pursuing food-service careers and to teachers seeking hands-on experience:

S Undergraduate Merit Scholarship for High-school Seniors: $2,000 for two terms. Open to seniors with at least 250 hours of restaurant or food-service work, who have been accepted into a related post-secondary program. Application deadline: May 1, 2000.

S Undergraduate Merit Scholarship for College Students: $1,000 per term for up to two terms. For students pursuing certificates or degrees in food service who have completed at least one term and have at least 750 hours of work experience. Application deadline: Nov. 1 for the December-May term; March 1 and July 1 for later terms.

S Graduate Degree Scholarship: $5,000 for two terms. For professionals with at least 1,000 hours work experience, who have been accepted into a business-related graduate program. Application deadline: May 1.

S Teacher Work-Study Grant: $2,000. For food-service educators seeking hands-on work experience through an industry job involving at least 200 hours work over a two-month period. Application deadline: April 15.

To apply, call (800) 765-2122, Ext. 733 or write: Scholarships Program, National Restaurant Foundation Educational Association, 250 S. Wacker Drive No. 1400, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5834. Or download applications online at http://www.edfound.org.

"Cuisine del Mundo": Cooking demonstrations will be conducted at the Beau Soleil Restaurant from 2-6:30 p.m. Sunday. The event begins with a wine tasting and a silent auction at 2 p.m., followed by a Nueva Latino demonstration at 3 p.m.; Moroccan demonstration at 4 p.m.; live auction at 5 p.m. and an Indian Cuisine demonstration at 5:30 p.m.

The cost is $40. Proceeds will benefit the Sigma Theta Tau Nursing Honor Society. Call 735-8903 for tickets or more information.

The Vintage Program: The outreach college of the University of Hawaii is offering a noncredit workshop covering white wines of the United States 7-9 p.m. Oct. 7. The course is limited to persons 21 years of age or older. The cost is $38. For information, call 956-7221 or connect to http://www.outreach.hawaii.edu.

The Mai Tai Bar "In the Pink": "Pink beer" is now being served at the Mai Tai Bar. "Royal Hawaiian Sunset Beer" is a hand-crafted beer brewed by Keoki Brewing Co. in Kauai exclusively for the Royal Hawaiian Hotel.

Executive Chef Thomas Wong complements the beer with his "Flavors of Hawaii" pupu menu. Prices range from $6-$13. Pupu specials are offered daily.

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