Millennium feast
at Roy’s follows
Kalakaua’s example
The 13-course meal will include
By Betty Shimabukuro
14 wines, many specially made
Star-BulletinThat Kalakaua -- he sure knew how to party. Skimming history books, Randal Caparoso came across menus that the king prepared for his various get-togethers at Iolani Palace. "I was fascinated that the dinners were just so fabulous. They'd be 20 to 25 courses, with wine." A few would have just 10 or 15 courses -- "I think those would be the light lunches."
So was born the idea for the Millennium Jubilee Celebration at Roy's Restaurant in Hawaii Kai, where Caparoso is a partner and wine manager. It promises to be the culinary E ticket of year's end.
Roy's New Year's Eve party is modeled after Kalakaua's Jubilee, held in 1886 at Iolani Palace. It will feature dim sum carts on the lawn, a 13-course meal in the dining room and dancing into the new millennium. All for a mere $325 per person.
Seating is limited to 150, with 30 to 35 already booked, including patrons from as far away as Germany and Turkey.
It's the kind of event Kalakaua might have planned, Caparoso said. "That's what he lived for: learning and talking, conversing, enjoying food and wine. Just enjoying, just dining."
Kalakaua was a man of international interests, but with pride in his native traditions, Caparoso said, and his menus reflected that fusion of the local with the global. "The whole lifestyle fascinated me. I thought, this person was doing regional cuisine in his own way, and this is our inspiration (at Roy's). We're basically doing what he did. We bring people from over the world and we like to present the customs and foodstuffs of Hawaii."
Roy Yamaguchi's Dec. 31 repast is inspired by Kalakaua's menus - for example, a Valentine's Day dinner in 1883. That banquet began with mulligatawny and turtle soups; Roy's will begin with a Hawaiian Spiny Lobster Mulligatawny. "We decided people wouldn't want turtle soup," Caparoso said. Other highlights . . .
Kalakaua: Moi, mullet, crab, oysters, anchovies. Yamaguchi: Miso-Cured Mullet, Steamed Hawaiian Moi, Limu Crab Risotto, Imu Oven Oyster Lau Lau (no anchovies).
Kalakaua: Wild duck, pigeon, plover, pheasant, fillet of veal, mutton cutlets. Yamaguchi: Duck a l'Orange, Wood-Roasted Pheasant with Foie Gras, Smoked Rack of Veal; instead of mutton, Lamb Cutlets in Truffle Essence Sauce.
Kalakaua: Boiled turkey in truffle sauce, boiled ham, chicken pie, roast goose. Yamaguchi: Escargot with Ham Hocks.
This doesn't even include all the side dishes (Yamaguchi will serve 10) or dessert, which for Kalakaua was Iolani pudding, wine jelly, sponge cake with coconut, papaya with fruit cake, strawberries with ice cream, fresh fruits and bonbons. For Yamaguchi: Breadfruit Souffle, Hawaiian Vintage Chocolate, Kulolo and Kona Coffee Petits Fours. Accompanying the meal will be 14 wines, paired to the food, many specially bottled for Roy's.
Roy's Millennium "Jubilee" Celebration: Joy at Roy's
Date: 6 p.m. Dec. 31 until way past midnight
