The Weekly Eater

By Nadine Kam

Thursday, September 2, 1999

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Castagnola is dining’s
comeback kid

AFTER George Castagnola's Manoa and Waikiki restaurants closed, he disappeared from the dining scene. There'd be occasional talk about a comeback and there's nothing like a little mystery to fuel hungry thoughts.

The calls started coming last month. "Do you know what the name of his restaurant is gonna be?" "Is Castagnola's open?" "They look like they're open. Did you write anything about it yet?"

Those who have gotten out of their cars for a firsthand peek at the new restaurant that bears his name, have given Castagnola a warm welcome. The times I've been there the restaurant has been filled to its 82-person capacity and everyone sure looks happy.

Those familiar with the old Castagnola's will find a different creature in Niu Valley, one that's a little tamer. I suppose it wouldn't do well for the restaurateur to repeat himself. He returns to a field glutted with pasta restaurants, quite a few in the hands of former protegees who "borrowed" his old formula for heavy garlicky fare.

CASTAGNOLA'S Food -- 1/2 Service -- Ambience -- Value -- 1/2 Address: Niu Valley Shopping Center Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays to Saturdays Prices: About $40 to $50 for two without drinks Call: 377-8854

THERE are no big surprises on the menu, but all the basics are served in a room proper enough for business associates, cozy enough for a date and homey enough for families.

I was joined on my first visit by Miss B, who rhapsodized about the tomato on the antipasta platter ($8.90), sublime in its confident testament to the restaurant's ambition to bring what's fresh, natural and wholesome to the table.

So an appetizer of Deviled Shrimp, in a spicy butter sauce, seemed a contradiction to the cause. It was a bit pricey at $11.90 for four pieces, and though coated with spices, they lacked any depth of flavor.

Shrimp Parmigiano ($14.90 lite; $19.90) marked another return to the natural. The mild tomato sauce is made from tomatoes imported from San Marzano, Italy. If it's more intensity you want, there's always Shrimp Scampi ($14.90; $19.90).

Veal Scaloppine is presented seven ways, from $12.90 to $19.90. Have it Parmigiano style, "Francese" style with white wine and lemon sauce, try the Anna O'Neil version with eggplant, tomato sauce and melted mozzarella, or simply sauteed with marsala wine and mushrooms, in a sauce more sweet than savory.

And although olive oil is better than most oils, I felt like I was drinking it in a dish of Chicken Siciliano ($12.90, $14.90).

The best dish by far was the Osso Bucco Alla Romana ($18.90), served with a sumptuous sauce of onions, tomatoes and herbs. If only all the sauces could be like this. It's admirable that some of the fat and salt has been stripped from the dishes, but in many cases, they have not been replaced by herbs, spices or any other flavor boosters.

I'm no great fan of Emeril Lagasse's, but in this case, it wouldn't hurt for the menu to be kicked it up a notch.

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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:

-- excellent;
-- very good, exceeds expectations;
-- average;
-- below average.

To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com