The Weekly Eater
THE old-fashioned ice cream parlor seemed to have died here with Farrell's. After that, we were left with small storefronts serving Haagen Dazs and Dave's tropical flavors, and in the last decade, a myriad chilled soy and yogurt products, thanks to concern over fat intake. But human beings can tolerate only so much good behavior. Ice cream is coming back, and two Hawaii newcomers could not be more different. Connect dots for
a taste of the future
Already dissed by ice cream snobs, Dippin' Dots can't be underestimated. Billed as the "ice cream of the future," the "dots" are truly a first. Said one connoisseur, "I wouldn't call it ice cream."
Dippin' Dots
1/2
At Ala Moana Center, lower level near Iida's. Call 946-2345. Also at Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park.
But it is, only instead of the familiar big scoop, you get hundreds of frozen ice cream "beads" in a cup. Instead of getting a mouthful of the luxurious stuff that rolls around your tongue until melting point, Dippin' Dots are chewy. Given time, though, they'll melt down like any ice cream.
Kids and teens love the dots, which hail not from Japan, land of the cutesy fads, but from Kentucky. I overheard one server ask a customer, "Hey, didn't I see you yesterday?"
Her reply: "I've been here every day. I have to get my fix!"
Fixate on flavors like mint chocolate chip, peanut butter and chocolate (a ringer for Reese's Peanut Butter Cups), pistachio, bubblegum and cappuccino, starting at $2.40 for a 4-ounce kiddie cup. Flavors are clean and instantly recognizable, even when mixed up in a banana split.
For parents with messy kids, there's no drip factor. However, spilling a cup would be very bad; the beads would scatter like a broken string of pearls.
I left without the sated feeling that usually accompanies a meal of ice cream, but strangely, the texture is addictive and I was already wondering what flavor I might try next time.
The problem with Ghiradelli's in San Francisco is that it's often too chilly there for Hawaii travelers to enjoy ice cream. There's no such problem here.
Ghiradelli's Soda Fountain & Chocolate Shop
At 2127 Kalakaua Ave. Call 922-3766.
Where Dippin' Dots is sort of the fast food of the ice cream world, Ghiradelli's is the equivalent of the steak house, all palate-pleasing creamy chocolate and vanilla served in huge combinations, such as the Fog Horn, hot fudge layered between two scoops of chocolate ice cream, topped with raspberry sauce, whipped cream and chocolate chips ($5.95).
I could do without a lot of the whipped cream, which drowns the Cable Car ($5.95) a trio of rocky road, chocolate chip and chocolate ice creams topped with hot fudge and chocolate cable cars.
The simpler the better here, although I couldn't resist the Strike it Rich ($5.95) combination of premium vanilla and toasted almond ice cream, with almond nuggets, butterscotch and hot fudge sauce.
Most of the customers I've seen here have been moderate in their choices, going for the single scoop cone ($2.50) or double scoop goblet ($3.95).
I almost ordered the banana split ($5.95) thanks to guilt over ingesting all the fat and cholesterol, as if the banana would make the dish healthy.
Don't kid yourself. This is a sinner's paradise, complete with adjoining chocolate shop. Malted milkshake anyone?
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
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