The Weekly Eater
THE idea of expansion in an economy like ours would seem to be mere fantasy for many businesses, but for Mr. Ojisan this is a time of opportunity. Mr. Ojisan flourishes
on local turfFor nine years, the restaurant had been doing good business catering to Japanese tourists in Waikiki, outside of kama'aina radar. After all, who goes to Waikiki, save for wedding banquets and luncheons?
Six months ago, the restaurant moved onto local turf at Kilohana Square. Like previous tenant Gonbei, Mr. Ojisan is a small gem.
The menu doesn't have the grilled items Gonbei was famous for, but it is full of the familiar, with choices of sashimi, ramen, oxtail soup and donburi.
The menu looks brief at first glance, because ramen takes up most of the first page. Udon, donburi and combination plates fill the second. It's in the roster of a la carte specialties where diners have the most choices. At most restaurants, you can almost predict the popular dishes. The same items keep appearing in waiters hands, landing at various tables. Here, there was no such pattern, as I found nearly every dish is a can't miss. About the only thing I didn't like was overly smoky tasting Broiled Eggplant ($3).
To our right, a group chose to open their meal with boiled Soy Beans ($3), Fried Chicken ($4) and Stir-Fried Vegetables ($5). To our left, a family dove into an a la carte plate of Grilled Steak ($8), a plate of Fried Rice ($5.75) and bowl of Tempura Udon ($5.75).
Food MR. OJISAN
1/2
Atmosphere:
Service:
Value:
Address: Kilohana Square, 1018 Kapahulu Ave.
Over at the counter, a big local guy was filling up on Asari Clams ($6) sauteed with garlic and onions in butter and white wine. An excellent choice. There are eight plump and ono clams per bowl and it's tempting to scoop up all the remaining liquid with a clam shell and drink it, as bad as that may be for your arteries. You'll wish this was served with bread.
And if you think this is good, try the deep-fried, crispy Soft Shell Crab ($6). You'll be fighting for the last fragment of a leg, down to that part that looks like a paddle and in other circumstances would be deemed inedible.
A platter of assorted Sashimi ($12) featured ahi, octopus and squid topped with tobiko. An a la carte plate of Shrimp Tempura ($7) featured three sweet, meaty shrimp and vegetables.
I felt quite spoiled here, as if I had ordered all the best and walked away only $40 poorer.
On the more affordable end, are the noodle dishes, such as Spicy Ramen or Kim Chee Ramen ($6.25). Most ramen houses offer what seem to be bottomless bowls. Here, you can opt for a Mini Combo ($6.50-$7), with about half the noodles, and four pieces of gyoza, shiny with oil. A sauce of vinegar and chiles cuts the oil somewhat.
The broth has a strong, earthy taste that comes from a homemade stock of chicken, pork and vegetables.
The menu leaves much more to explore on future trips.
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
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