The Weekly Eater

By Nadine Kam

Thursday, June 24, 1999

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Donato’s an
impeccable experience

NO talk stink is the Golden Rule in Hawaii and no matter how long I work at this job, I always walk into restaurants with this in mind, praying for the four-star experience that will help me avoid breaking "the rule." I'm always grateful to restaurant staffers who, in doing their jobs right, allow me to be the "nice local girl."

One such restaurant is Donato's Ristorante E Carpacceria, which sets a standard for others to imitate or beat. Its co-owners are Sarento's renegades Troy Haley and chef Donato Loperfido, who hails from Alberobello, Italy. They've accomplished the near-impossible: creating what is essentially a neighborhood restaurant that is world class.

Set in the space that once housed Kahala Moon, the restaurant is softly lit, cozy and suited for anything from a romance-minded party of two to a boisterous party of 10. Attentive, but unobtrusive service manages to make all parties feel as though they're the only customers in the house, even with a seating capacity of 80.

Guests are welcomed with complimentary caponata, a vegetarian appetizer, and olives to go with their bread.

Start with antipasti such as Garlic Snails with Polenta ($6), Scampi al Gratin ($11) or Bruschetta Rustica ($5), toasted foccaccia topped with roasted eggplant, feta, tomatoes and basil. We went off the menu, choosing a summery special of grilled artichokes, goat cheese, tomatoes and arugula.

DONATO'S RISTORANTE Food Service Value Ambience Address: 4614 Kilauea Ave. Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Mondays to Fridays, 5:30 to 10 p.m. Mondays to Saturdays Prices: About $40 to $60 for two without drinks Call: 738-5655

You may also opt for carpacci, whether of beef ($9-$12), cured salmon ($11), roasted portobello ($10) or ahi ($12), which is pounded thin, drizzled with olive oil and topped with a tapenade of sun-dried tomatoes and gaeta olives and a roasted onion, green top intact.

After this, you may order a pasta or risotto course, Italian-style, or skip ahead to the secondi, or second-course entree. If you're a light eater, the pasta or risotto -- the rich Wild Mushroom Risotto ($10) is a must -- will be more than enough to lead you into dessert.

The lone disappointment was the Sardinian Pasta ($9) with porcini ragu, and only because it lacked the excitement of other dishes, such as an entree of Grilled Lamb Chops ($20) marinated in a luxurious fig balsamic vinegar, or tender Veal Scaloppina ($18) topped with another salad of peppery arugula, fresh mozzarella, tomatoes and olives. Other entree choices include a Mixed Fish and Shellfish Stew ($25) and Polenta ($18) topped with a savory mixture of sausage, veal, beef, artichokes, lentils, pancetta and roasted garlic.

You can't walk away here. Desserts include Nicciolato, a chocolate cake with caramel gelato, and on the light side, a refreshing glass of Limoncello, lemon sorbet topped with seasonal berries and a liqueur made from chef Donato's secret recipe.

This is a restaurant that plays it straight, with good food and good service, plain and simple. No gimmicks. It's so refreshing.

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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:

-- excellent;
-- very good, exceeds expectations;
-- average;
-- below average.

To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com