By Dennis Oda, Star-Bulletin
A waiter at Halekulani's La Mer Restaurant lifts his tray
to avoid a collision with Star-Bulletin reporter Tim Ryan.
Reporter Tim Ryan goes
By Tim Ryan
on assignment to see firsthand
what it takes to work at the
high-class Halekulani hotel
Star-BulletinYOU don't want to stand in front of the chute," warned Romy Bolo, laundry supervisor at the Halekulani. I was dead center under a 6-foot-square metal chute, starting the first of seven jobs in what would be, for me, a 14-hour work day at the hotel Gourmet magazine readers this year voted No. 1 in the world.
At 8:10 a.m. Bolo and I were at one of several laundry chutes in the 456-room hotel, where 132 housekeepers dump 15,000 pounds of dirty laundry -- sheets, pillow cases, towels, robes, bath mats -- a day. Next to me was a large bin on wheels where the soiled laundry would go before being rolled into the laundry room.
Bolo, a 16-year employee, bangs the side of the steel-gray chute. The dull sound tells him it's full. "Better stand back," he advises.
When I start to push the bin under the chute's opening Bolo shakes his head.
"We have to separate everything," he says. "Let it all fall on the ground."
He unfastens two large latches then pulls the chute open. An avalanche of dirty linen falls to the floor creating a momentary breeze.
"You would have been buried," Bolo says smiling, as we fill the bin with towels.
By Dennis Oda, Star-Bulletin
Hotel Quality Control Director Tim Lee, right, points out lanais
across the property dotted with bird poop.
Five Diamond experience
Zagat U.S. Hotels, Resorts and Spa's Survey recently named Halekulani one of the nation's top four hotels, ranking it as the top for dining, facilities, rooms and service in Hawaii. Other prestigious awards earned by the property and staff include Conde Nast Traveler's "Top 100 Readers" Choice Awards, Travel & Leisure's "Best Service in the World," and Gourmet Magazine's "Top Tables."Halekulani is also the only property in Hawaii that has both the American Automobile Association Five Diamond Award for lodging, which it has had for 13 years, and dining. The La Mer restaurant has had the award for eight years. There are only 23 properties in the United States, Canada and Mexico with this dual distinction.
The Halekulani employs 750 people, an exceptionally high ratio to the number of rooms, at about 1.6 employees per room.
To find out what goes into running a world-class operation, I would perform laundry, housekeeping and quality control tasks, as well as work as a waiter, concierge and front desk clerk. I would have three uniform changes, and lots of attitude adjustment.
By Dennis Oda, Star-Bulletin
Ryan lets out a yell after successfully answering a call at the
Halekulani switchboard under the guidance of Melba DeMello,
telecommunications manager.
The laundry challenge
"You have to enjoy working with people," said waiter Raymond Siu, a 1998 Presidents Award recipient for his waiter work at House Without A Key. "You have to like challenges, to set goals and standards and try to exceed them, then exceed them again. You have to anticipate people's needs before they tell you. And you must enjoy being part of a team and helping the team over your own agenda."In the laundry, Bolo and I load one of three large washing machines -- capacity 250 pounds each -- with wet, heavy, disgusting towels. The hotel laundry operates 17 hours a day, seven days a week, using 39 workers. Each towel weighs 1.5 pounds. The front load door is 4 feet off the ground, and eventually my back aches from lifting dozens of wet towels. (The bath towels have a lifespan of about 250 washings before they're made into rags for housekeeping and other uses.)
"Push the towels toward the back to make room," Bolo orders. "You get more in there that way."
When I ask why Halekulani towels seem so much whiter than at other hotels, laundry manager David Tam beams.
"It's all in the rinsing," he says. "We do three rinses to get out all chemical residue. If it goes into the drier with chemicals still on it, yellowing occurs."
Nearby are two enormous drying-pressing-folding machines where two workers hold sheets lengthwise, carefully sliding each one between rollers where temperatures reach 158 to 177 degrees.
By Dennis Oda, Star-Bulletin
Reporter Tim Ryan attempts to tightly tuck the sheet under
a bed corner in one of the guest rooms during training
sessions at the Halekulani.
Matilda Tancinco, a 14-year Halekulani worker; and her partner Clarina Ladera, 15 years, work as a single unit: folding the sheets and laying them between the rollers at exactly the same time."It's all teamwork," Tancinco says. "You learn to know what to expect from your partner."
If the sheet's too thin, they fold two corners to alert workers on the other side to remove the linen. If there's a visible hole in the fabric, one corner is folded for the same reason. The machines handle as many as 3,000 pieces a day.
The tablecloths for La Mer are pressed but not folded. Instead, they're hung over thick wooden bars before being carried to the restaurant. The 100-percent wool blankets for each bed are dry cleaned in the hotel's facility.
Details, details
Before Housekeeping's morning shift even begins, executive housekeeper Audrey Doh talks to the staff about recent cleaning problems and special guests checking into the hotels."If you see anyone on these floors who you don't think belong contact security right away," Doh says. "Oh, and remember that Mr. (guest's name) only uses hooded robes, so don't put his robe in the laundry bin."
Guests preferences are kept on a hotel computer.
"We want to have things perfect when the guest arrives, whether it's a first or return visit," Doh says. "One guest only wants silk flowers in the room; another, a special bench in the bathtub; some guests like furniture arranged a certain way."
By Dennis Oda, Star-Bulletin
Halekulani provided black dress shoes required for working
the concierge desk since Tim Ryan was wearing white shoes.
Before I begin cleaning a room, Tim Lee, director of Quality Control, tells me housekeepers have about 130 things to do in each room. A quality control supervisor, like Letty Berano, will check the room a second time."It's as much about the little things as the big things," Lee says. "Every waste basket is wiped down with a damp cloth whether there's trash in it or not. Drawer liners are changed if there's even the tiniest spot on it. Televisions and radios are turned on to make sure they work."
And the TV Guide is indexed with a bookmark to the specific day's listing.
When I reach my room, Lorna Bolosan is hard at work, stripping one of two twin beds. After removing the sheets, pillow cases and wool blanket, leaving any items that may belong to the guest, she snaps the first clean sheet over the mattress where it glides in place. The second and third sheets, and blanket are spread with the seams facing up a few inches from the top of the bed so that when they're turned back no seam shows.
Bolosan uses smooth, quick strokes to tuck the sheets and blanket at each corner tightrope tight. She uses a minimum of effort, lifting the mattress only high enough to get the sheets and blanket tucked under and deep. All four of my attempts end with wrinkles, loose fits, uneven seams.
The all marble-and-glass-and-tile bathroom turns it into a sauna during my 15 minutes of cleaning there.
"Everything must be wiped down and cleaned twice," Lee tells me.
By Dennis Oda, Star-Bulletin
Letty Berano of quality control shows Tim Ryan that all hanger
hooks need to be facing in one direction.
Bolosan wipes the tub clean back to front with a detergent; then rinses it and dries it with several rags. I stand in the shower wiping even the most hidden surfaces, quietly cursing the guests who left soggy towels on the floor, hair in the soap tray, shampoo spilled on the sink. I feel embarrassed for all the hotel rooms I've trashed so quickly.When I ask Bolosan if she, too, doesn't secretly curse piggish guests, she says, "No, they're here to enjoy themselves, not keep things so clean."
Then there's vacuuming the carpet, replacing toilet items, wiping down the closet, counting and wiping hangers, folding clean bath towels so the Halekulani logo shows properly.
A room takes 30 to 45 minutes to clean, Lee says.
In another room, Berano finds a miniscule stain on a drawer liner. She replaces it. A far greater problem is a 2-inch strand of hair left near the bathtub drain.
"This housekeeper has had this problem before," Berano says, noting the infraction in her inspection report. "I'll have to talk to her again."
Before Berano leaves the room, she checks tissue and toilet paper to make sure the tips have been folded into a point and are embossed with the Halekulani logo.
A concierge can handle any task
At a Weekly Walk Around, staff representing every department are led by Lee."We look at whatever the guest might see to make sure everything is clean, manicured, in place, detailed," he said.
Lee's pet peeve is yellowing or dead leaves. As he walks, he removes dead leaves as well as cigarette butts on lawns or in ponds.
"Look at that!" he says, shaking his head.
Fifty feet away, a potted plant sits atop the place where it's supposed to be planted. The other inspectors take notice of shoe marks on borders and walls where guests rested their feet. There is also the occasional dead light bulb, rusting screw, drooping rain gutter, dusty lamp fixture, a telephone not properly centered, a large potted palm with the most abundant foliage facing the wall.
My next stop -- with a uniform change -- is the concierge desk: the "Nothing is a problem; of course, we can arrange shipping your new peacocks to Hong Kong" department of the hotel.
Sally Yates and Susan Koki look snappy in Navy blue uniforms, black heels and friendly smiles. There's no stool or chair behind the counter.
"We want to look ready at all times, responsible for whatever the guest needs," Yates says.
When a couple from Japan approaches the desk asking a question in their native language, Yates responds quickly. Though not fluent in Japanese she's pretty conversant. The couple smiles, and leave.
"We never say no, ever," Koki says. "It's not part of the Halekulani vocabulary."
The request to ship peacocks to Asia was fact, not fiction, she says.
"I had no idea how or who could ship them so I just started making calls until I found a company with the crates we needed," Koki said.
By Dennis Oda, Star-Bulletin
Tim Ryan tells General Manager Patty Tam, center, and
Melanie Taira, left, of his exploits while working at the hotel.
Most requests are for restaurant reservations -- usually last minute -- fixing airline travel problems, and sightseeing recommendations.It's not uncommon for return guests to request the services of a specific concierge, said Koki, a Halekulani employee for 13 years.
"We're ambassadors for the hotel; many return guests become family," she said. "They expect to see us."
One family will only use Koki when they visit. One year they were scheduled to check in on Susan's day off. She reported to the hotel anyway to greet them.
"It's all about building relationships," Koki said.
When a sportily dressed couple approaches the concierge desk, Yates and Susan are on the telephone.
"Good afternoon, may I help you?," I ask nervously.
"We want to go to the Coral Creek Golf Club. Can you direct us?" the woman asks.
As luck would have it, I DO know where it is and I politely give them specific and easy-to-follow directions. I'm beaming when they walk away contented.
A few minutes later, I remember telling the couple to turn mauka on Fort Weaver Road not makai, sending them toward Mililani rather than Ewa!
At the Lobby Reception Nelson Arlos, assistant front office manager repeats what I've heard all day: learn the guests' names; greet them warmly; step aside when you pass in the hall and walkways; anticipate their needs. When a phone rings, Arlos quickly picks it up because phones are not supposed to ring more than twice.
When guests exit their vehicles, porters get the names off luggage and notify the front desk. Before the new arrival is halfway across the lobby someone greets them by name. A busy day sees as many as 150 arrivals; 60 on a slow day.
Guests register in their rooms and are told about all three restaurants and some Halekulani perks such as getting free tickets to Honolulu Symphony concerts and Honolulu Academy of Art admissions. Once inside the room, the hotel escort opens the doors to show off the spectacular ocean view.
"It's much more personalized," Arlos says.
Behind the concierge and reception areas, in a narrow oblong room, three operators field some 3,000 calls a day.
"Good afternoon, Halekulani Hotel, how may I help you?" Melba DeMello says in a cheerful tone.
My first attempt is uninviting, DeMello tells me firmly.
"Put a smile in your voice," she says.
I feel a bit silly but I do.
"You really do have to be happy," DeMello says. "If I have a lousy voice that's what's projected about the Halekulani."
Waiter Siu gives me pointers at House Without A Key where tables are full and neatly dressed waiters scurry.
"The most important thing is to always go the extra step," Siu says. "Our standard is that within the first minute of the guest sitting down we serve water and offer a variety of beverages. Anticipate their needs without intimidating them. If you return to the table too often they may feel you're rushing them."
After greeting guests, I open their napkins then remove extra table settings. I put down a coaster for the water glass.
Staffers are asked not to speak pidgin or use casual phrases such as "OK" and "No problem."
Siu sends me to a table where two couples apparently have finished eating.
"May I remove your glass?" I ask the woman reaching for it.
No response. I ask again. The woman just stares at me as I notice a tiny bit of iced tea in her glass.
"No," she says.
I feel like a failure for not realizing she wants to keep her warm and well diluted tea.
Then I compound the situation by saying "OK."
I retreat to the sparkling clean employee's cafeteria, exhausted, as much mentally as physically.
Naomi Kanna, Halekulani's training manager, explains it's relatively easy to teach physical skills to people, but "the difficult part is teaching interpersonal skills."
Genuine friendliness is detected early on, Kanna said.
"They either have it or they don't," she said.
I'm Tim, I'll be your waiter
I feel friendly but unqualified for La Mer, the hotel's premier fine-dining restaurant. When I arrive, a dozen well-dressed waiters are being prepped by restaurant manager Jean-Yves Kervarrec about meals, VIPs and customer preferences.Waiters work in teams of three. Dinner for two, I learn, averages about $265 with wine; waiters don't write down orders but memorize them. When guests arrive, they're given complimentary champagne and an appetizer.
Then Kervarrec gives me the basics of a La Mer waiter.
"You must know food, be able to describe ingredients, know what wine goes with certain food, the 10 different kinds of tea, 20 kinds of cheeses," he says, not smiling. "Remember, we offer excellent service and immense courtesy."
The waiters stare at me with trepidation.
I'm assigned to team captain Alex Balido and Romulo Delos Santos at tables in a distant corner of the restaurant. I stand at attention near the entrance, greeting guests with a smile. When I'm summoned to my first table the guests are Quality Control director Lee and training manager Kanna.
Before I'm allowed to serve them water -- poured at the table -- Santos shows me how to cradle the pitcher using a linen towel. I make the mistake of filling the glasses to the brim, making it impossible for my esteemed guests to sip without spilling.
Santos replaces the water glasses. When I serve the sashimi appetizer, Lee asks "which sauce goes best with which fish?"
I blank out but Santos steps in: "All the sauces are suitable with each fish, sir."
"Teamwork," he whispers to me smiling.
Then Kanna asks me about the crust on the opah. I have no clue.
"It's something you are expected to know," Santos tells me later.
"What about this wine, Ostertag?"
"It's from a Utah vineyard owned by Utah Jazz center Greg Ostertag," I say, lying but having fun for the first time.
Santos stares at me in disbelief before correcting my misinformation. I retreat to the water pitcher to properly refill glasses.
In the bustling kitchen ruled by Chef Yves Garnier, of Monte Carlo, he explains the pressure of La Mer is "to be the best."
"I enjoy providing the ultimate dining experience for people," he says. "Explaining about the food, the preparation, uniqueness. It's a challenge but that's what makes it so interesting."
When my dinner orders are ready Garnier eyes me nervously when I squat under a 20-pound silver tray holding the fish-filled plates. The kitchen goes silent; my knees ache.
As I straighten up, I hear sighs of relief. I carry the tray to the dining room, setting it on a cart alongside the table. I place the dishes in the right order and with delicacy.
From across the room, Kervarrec gives me a subtle thumbs up. In the kitchen Garnier says, "Good job."
I remove dirty dishes; refill water glasses at another waiter's table; clean crumbs off another; then deliver the bill to "my customers." After 14 hours, I feel part of the Halekulani team, in spirit, if not in skill.
This has been the hardest day I've worked in a long time and the first time in years where I put the customer first. It's been a good lesson in priorities; and humility.
As Kanna escorts me back to my room, singer Dionne Warwick, whom I'd interviewed just days before steps into the elevator. I start to follow.
"No," Kanna says grabbing my arm gently. "Halekulani staff never ride the elevator with a guest. You're still in uniform."
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