THE moment you walk into Portlock, you are struck by color -- rich, saturated hues that rarely have occasion to be seen together, save for boxes of 64 Crayola crayons ... or maybe, Jams. .... Could it be? Fashion finds its
place at PortlockAlthough chef Mark Rochlen would love the restaurant to stand on its own merits, there's no denying its provenance. The Rochlen name is synonymous with Surf Line Hawaii, creator of a brassy, sassy, colorful line of sportswear known as Jams. Mark is the son of Surf Line founder Dave Rochlen.
Question is, can the family that built its fortune on fashion, make the leap into food?
The quick answer is "yes." Dad put his expertise to work in designing the restaurant, while the younger Rochlens, Mark (executive chef/general manager) and his brother Pua (president), borrow and expand on the key words that have worked for Surf Line: fun, love, difference, color and freedom. Surveying the appetizers, one first detects a South American influence, with a Peruvian Ceviche ($8), of delicate scallops dressed with lime, cilantro, onion and peppers, served in a coconut cup perched atop a pedestal of meringue; also, Crab and Avocado Margarita ($10), another variation of ceviche in a glass, splashed with Cointreau and Cuervo Gold.
The menu also visits the Far East, with Bamboo-steamed Chilean Sea Bass ($18) and Bangkok-Style Chicken ($16),charbroiled and served with yellow curry sauce and cucumber and peanut relish. Just when you think you've got this restaurant pegged, chef Mark veers toward Louisiana territory with a Cajun Ribeye Steak ($18), then it's on to France with French Onion Gratinee ($4), the classic soup made here with sweet Maui onions.
STANDOUTS include the scallops above, a tender Pan-roasted Chicken Provence ($16) stuffed with goat cheese, herbs and roasted garlic; Parker Ranch steaks ($20-$28), the largest being a 24-ounce porterhouse; and Braised Lamb Shank ($17) served over orzo and pumpkin pilaf.
And put your order in early for "Chocolate Lava" souffle ($5) served in a pool of caramel and Belgian chocolate with chunks of roasted banana.
"I've tried to recreate the dishes I've enjoyed, the places I've been," Mark says.
It was only after working a variety of restaurant jobs in Maui and Honolulu, catering baby luau and weddings, that Mark attending the California Culinary Academy, partly as a way to distance himself from the family business, where he worked for 12 years.
"It was tough to work with a strong, influencing father. I grew up in the '70s and I was a little rebellious, fought the establishment, did my own thing.
"Now I have more appreciation for the experiences my dad tried to bring to my life. We're both unconventional. I would like to bring in non-standard things, different products, even if we don't make any money on them, like abalone at $65 a pound. Or fresh uni. People think I'm crazy."
As in fashion, crazy can be good.
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com
