FOR pie, you go to a bakery right? How about a fish counter? It's an odd combination but it works at Monarch Seafood, a visionary little company that casts a wide net. Gourmet food fit
for a monarchMonarch really needs a marquee to tell diners what's going on and just who's in the small kitchen. The eatery has hosted many a chef -- such as Solomon Kaonohi of Oahu Country Club and Hale Aina award-winning chef Sean Kinoshita, when he was in between stints at Sunset Grill and the Kapalua Bay Hotel.
How does a take-out lunch place score top talent? By hanging out with the big boys and giving them a sampling of excellence. Monarch started nine years ago as a seafood wholesaler, providing fresh seafood for restaurants, caterers and hotels. Company president Tommy Mukaigawa now says, "I wanted to start a business related to fishing so I could fish everyday. I ended up with a business that gave me less time to fish and meant working more."
He must like punishment, because a year-and-a-half ago, he decided to take advantage of some extra space in Monarch's Kalihi Street building to construct a kitchen.
It gets pretty crowded in there at lunch time, with office workers strolling in to pick up their orders, often 12 to 40 plates at one time. This is especially amazing when you discover many items are cooked before your eyes.
The only items standing, in a refrigerated counter, are the various kinds of poke -- at least eight a day -- such as spicy au, dry aku and seasoned scallops at market prices. Some customers eat the fish while they wait for their plates.
"They know we take a really long time," Mukaigawa laughs. "We're slow."
WHAT you get for waiting is gourmet fare at a top price of about $7.50. As far as I'm concerned, this is the only place to get grilled ahi ($6.75) that isn't dried out. Says Mukaigawa, "You can't usually get fresh opakapaka or fresh ahi on a plate lunch. We know because we supply the restaurants."
A Seafood Casserole ($6.95) of fish, shrimp and imitation crabmeat tastes fresh and light. Also worth trying is the Roasted Garlic Chicken ($5.95), served with a mushroom-cream sauce.
With a place this size, I'd expect to find five good specials a day. They offer closer to 14, such as Furikake Salmon ($6.95) and Ginger-Steamed Butterfish ($7.50), both served with organic greens.
As much as I liked the food here, Mukaigawa said he is in between chefs and relying on his own recipes. "Believe me, it gets a lot better," he said.
Each chef to pass through the kitchen has put his own twist on the menu. They once had a pastry chef in the kitchen, making up to seven different desserts every day.
For now, you'll have to settle for chocolate-haupia pie dripping with lilikoi sauce or banana cream pie. I'm not complaining.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays
Prices: Less than $8 per plate; take-out only
Call: 841-7877; placing large orders a day ahead recommended; fax 847-3930
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com
