YOUR server at Cafe Laniakea at the YWCA may very well be a VIP, though save for her knowledgeable air, she'd never let on. Cheryl Ka'uhane is prepared to take her share of knocks if service is too slow or an order comes out wrong. Good food, lofty goals,
at Laniakea"I figure if I'm going to teach people how to work the tables, I have to learn myself," says Ka'uhane, director of Laniakea, which serves up education and empowerment as well as an assortment of wholesome edibles.
The menu can be described as Broke da Mouth, with meat. Ka'uhane was the Honolulu licensee for the Big Isle-based restaurant known for vegetarian fare.Yet Ka'uhane said she never thought out the repercussions of opening a business. She'd always been prepared to move on when the next challenge appeared. "This time I realized that if I wanted to move on I had all these people who were relying on me.
"I never knew what direction my business would take, but when this space opened up I came in with a bigger picture."Ka'uhane blended her Broke da Mouth staff with the employees of the former YWCA restaurant Julia Morgan, then added some lofty community-minded goals to her business plan.
Sure, you can still get a great meal here. Ka'uhane reprises Broke da Mouth's menu of mini vegetarian manapua ($1) each, healthy salads ($2.75) and the Sampler Plate Lunch ($6), with taro and sweet potato salad, 'Nalo greens, mini veggie manapua, pesto pasta salad and a slice of ginger/pumpkin bread. But there are also $4.50 sandwiches of Ham and Cheese, Oven Roasted Turkey Breast, even a burger, in the form of the dense, one-third pound Camp Kokoburger.
Breads are crafted fresh on the premises by Linda Whang and provide a strong foundation for the sandwiches. Oh, they're good by themselves, too. A little basket of breads with herb butter runs $2.75. A big basket is $4.25.
Plate specials fit into daily themes, such as "Noodles and other Pastabilities" on Mondays. One "Hawaiian Style" Friday special was chicken luau short on stuff bad for you, like excess salt and fat-filled coconut milk. Some might think it too plain, but even with meat, Laniakea aims to be fairly kind to your body.
A sandwich of curried chicken salad on whole wheat was fine with more chunks of apple than chicken. And I liked the grilled veggie of the day (eggplant) on foccacia, although a slice of cheese seemed as artificial as plastic when contrasted with the other garden fresh ingredients.
AS important as the menu is the can-do attitude of this nonprofit community operation. The cafeteria has a job-training program that welcomes students from Alu Like, and Ka'uhane plans to keep dinner hours open for community meetings, parties and events. Your ideas are always welcome.
The name "Laniakea," Hawaiian for open sky or broad horizon, reflects limitless potential. Patrons can walk away feeling they've contributed to nurturing something good.
For all the lip service paid this time of year to the spirit of brotherhood and humanity, I'd say Cafe Laniakea is ahead of the game in creating a positive force in the community. And Ka'uhane may be a waiter in training, but with an eye on the big picture, she knows what she's doing.
Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday
Prices: About $12 to $15 for two
Call: 524-8789; fax 545-2832
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com-- excellent;
