I enjoy getting e-mail from people out-of-state -- many of them former kamaaina -- who enjoy reminiscing about their favorite restaurants and dishes from back when. Good news:
Maui Tacos goes globalMy first thought is, "That's so sweet. Thank you for sharing."
My second is, "What are you people, masochists?"
I mean, you wouldn't taunt a recovering alcoholic by waving a bottle of Jack Daniels around, right? To me, there's nothing sadder than reading about food I can't have.
But, my web-surfing food fanatics, your patience will be rewarded. If you haven't heard of Maui Tacos yet, you will, and it may be arriving at a location near you.
The fast-food outlet started by on Maui by Avalon chef Mark Ellman, his wife Judy, and Shep Gordon, made news recently when Blimpie International announced it would take Maui Tacos to the mainland. Thirty outlets are planned for next year.
When it happens, expect tacos and burritos your way because you control the fabulous extras. That is, choose from a range of fresh, homemade salsas that include the mildest Tomatillo-Pineapple Salsa (which complements fish tacos and burritos) and the smoky Chipotle Salsa.The latter salsa is the hottest, which will disappoint chile fans. It will make your taste buds tingle, but won't sear your tongue. Ellman's philosophy is to make food for everybody, even if it means taming the wild pepper.
In addition to the six or seven different salsas, you can layer on diced onion, chopped cilantro and sliced jalapenos.
ON Oahu, the place to get Maui Tacos is Dole Cannery's food court. How well Ellman's formula plays on the mainland may depend on the region. Given the chef's Hawaii regional cuisine credentials, Maui Tacos' offerings are best summed up as "Fresh-Mex," not Tex-Mex.
Like so many of the wrap eateries that have opened, Maui Tacos' burritos are full of rice, causing one good ol' Texas boy I know to mutter something like, "Anyone who puts rice in a burrito in Texas would be run out of town. Tacos and burritos gotta have beef."
But the light-flavored Spanish rice isn't bad at all. I'm not a big fan of the usual wrap formula of plenty rice with hardly any entree, but it works here. The long-grain rice stays fluffy even under the weight of beans, salsa and all that cilantro and onions.
And there is beef, even if it's just a small dice of tender, char-broiled steak. This goes into "Surf Burritos" with individual names that have been smartly trademarked to protect the good Maui name. The "Lahaina" ($6.95), for instance, has rice, Jack and cheddar cheeses, guacamole and your choice of the steak or char-broiled chicken.
The "La Perouse" ($6.95) has chicken and steak with rice, black beans, sour cream, lettuce and salsa.
There are seven vegetarian burritos, such as the "Paia" ($4.99), a salad burrito combining lettuce, tomato, black beans, guacamole and salsa.
One taco features potato ($1.65) in a hard corn shell. It ain't fancy, it ain't frilly, but like the rest of Maui Tacos' offerings, it allows you to add the finishing touches -- have it your way. I believe that philosophy worked before.
Prices: $6 to $8 per person
Hours: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday
Call: 531-6301
Also: At Maui's Napili Plaza, Lahaina Square, Kamaole Beach Center and Kaahumanu Center, and Hilo's Prince Kuhio Plaza
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com-- excellent;
