S U R F I N G



Bonga is chairman
of the boards

Hawaii’s longboard surfing champion
went a long way to bring the
world title back home

By Greg Ambrose
Star-Bulletin

Cars cruising the North Shore on Kamehameha Highway early in October honked their horns in celebration at homemade signs proclaiming former Waikiki surf rat Bonga Perkins the new world longboard champion.

Aside from a very few sore losers, the commotion was audible proof that the planet's surfing community is pleased by the triumph of a professional longboard surfer who incredibly gives away as many waves as he catches.

Such generosity is depressingly rare among surfers whose larger, more-buoyant surfboards enable them to scoop up every wave on the horizon.

The ride to the top of professional surfing's throne was frustrating for Bonga. For three straight years he watched as close friend and constant nemesis, Rusty Keaulana, claim the championship during fierce competition in California, Hawaii and Reunion Island.

In October, Bonga traveled to Guethary in France to ride cold, powerful waves and bring the world title back to Hawaii when Keaulana faltered in his bid for a fourth straight championship.

At 6 feet tall, devastatingly handsome, disarmingly charming, with a surfing style that is a visually pleasing blend of smooth traditional moves and exciting progressive maneuvers, Bonga seems to have been created to wear the mantle of world champion.

But years ago, only his sister, Marie, could see the potential in the scrawny little sand flea who haunted the waves in Waikiki.

"When he entered his first contest, I saw him stand up on his boogie board and ride it like a surfboard," she said. "I knew he was special."

Greg Perkins has been a regular at Queens since forever, strolling back and forth to the nose of his 11-foot surfboard and cruising in that proud Hawaiian style. He introduced his children Marie, Bonga and Keoni to the ocean early to prevent idleness from luring them into mischief.

The youngsters carried their bodyboards the short distance from their Waikiki home to the fun waves at the Kuhio Wall, the training ground of many famous Hawaii bodyboarders.

Once they became addicted to the pleasures of wave riding, the clever father used it to motivate his children. His ultimatum was clear: good grades meant they could go to the beach and ride the waves. Bad grades meant they could sit at home and suffer.

It worked.

Bonga was a model citizen in high school, getting straight As and earning enough beach time to become an excellent surfer riding longboards and shortboards.

He was also fiercely independent, charting his own course and refusing to follow some of his friends into trouble.

According to fellow professional surfer Akila Aipa, it was Bonga's early experiences that taught him to share waves.

"He grew up surfing shortboards, so he doesn't pig out on a longboard. He's generous, he waits his turn."

It's a trait that endears the new world champion to other wave riders, something they appreciate more than his astounding surfing ability.

"Every time I go out to surf I want everyone to have fun and not hate me because I'm catching all the waves," Bonga said. "Everyone is out there for the same reason, to catch waves and have fun.

"Who knows, someone might have a nice restaurant and I give him a wave and he treats me to dinner," he said, laughing.

Bonga, 25, is also a natural father who takes as much delight in raising his children, Keoni, 4, and his daughter, Kehani, as he did in winning the world title.

Kehani's birth last summer was the good luck charm that helped Bonga win four straight contests, culminating in the world contest victory in October.

"Everything is going well, I'm high on life. I fulfilled one of my childhood dreams, now I'd like to take another step and fulfill another," Bonga said.

He has in mind a local restaurant along the lines of Sam Choy's, with great local favorites served in eat-until-you-sleep portions.

"You have to build up a challenge in life," he says. "I'd like to get away from the whole surf industry and learn something different, make it a fun thing and learn all the ins and outs.

"There is more to life than winning more titles and breaking records. But surfing will always be a part of my life."

And an important part at that. He and his father still share waves in relaxing sessions at Queens.

"I have a photo with me and my dad and son on a wave. Not a lot of people can share things with their parents like that. I feel privileged. He introduced me to the ocean, it's a payback to win the world title. When I was on the podium, I dedicated the contest to my dad.

"My dad raised me good. 'Share the wealth' is his motto."

A lot of surfers are glad Bonga has taken that message to heart.




Text Site Directory:
[News] [Business] [Features] [Sports] [Editorial] [Community]
[Info] [Letter to Editor] [Stylebook] [Feedback]



© 1997 Honolulu Star-Bulletin
http://starbulletin.com