By Nadine Kam
Star-Bulletin
Thursday, September 19, 1996
"There is no doubt that opportunity and the all-powerful attraction of a restaurant's list of dishes, have led many diners into extravagances which were beyond their pockets." - Brillat-Savarin, 1825
For the $1.3 million spent on refurbishing this grand dame of Honolulu restaurants, the French cabinetry, objets d'art and labor barely register. The overall elegance is appreciated, but the beauty of the Pacific as framed through vast open windows hits diners like a tsunami. I could not believe this effect, considering myself quite jaded since the ocean is my neighbor.
In spite of the build-up given Michel's reopening after 10 months no one has said anything to me about the food, except, "It's so expensive." Examples: A Steak Tartare appetizer is $22. Entrees run from $29 for Osso Bucco to $55 for Michel's Seafood Platter of lobster, crab cakes, tiger prawns and opakapaka. I was too afraid to ask the market price of abalone lightly battered and sauteed with white wine, butter and capers.
Other restaurants of Michel's caliber are offering equally impressive fare at half the cost. But exclusivity has cachet to those who believe food only tastes good if it comes at a premium. There is a place for that sort of attitude. This is it!
Coquilles St. Jacques St. Tropez ($19.50), or scallops, were seared and served with the centers rare. The presentation was whimsical. What it means, I don't know, but it looked like this: a single pansy centered in a scallop shell like Venus rising from mashed potatoes with two sprigs of garlic chives standing like torches to light the way. Where's Freud when you need him? The scallops were sprinkled with crunchy basil seeds and sat in a Pernod sundried tomato sauce that was vibrantly tart.
Cognac was set afire at the table to introduce Lobster Bisque Flambe ($12). For all the fireworks, the bisque was rather gritty and had a musty cast. Faring better was a Wild Mushroom Soup ($12) crowned with a fluffy spinach souffle meant to resemble a mushroom cap. (It was also a ringer for cauliflower.)
Salmon Brillat-Savarin ($32), named for the famed French gastronome, was nothing extraordinary, topped with a scallop mousse that tasted like fishcake fizz. Too little lobster champagne sauce accompanied the fish and the result was rather dry.
The highlight of this particular meal was Beef Tenderloin a la Rossini ($35) topped with smooth goose liver pate and an intoxicating Madeira truffle sauce.
Desserts are of a cut and serve variety. Originality is there, but a Raspberry-Cassis ice cream cake was filled with icicles, like badly frozen Sara Lee.
Where: Colony Surf Hotel, 2895 Kalakaua Ave. Valet parking
Hours: From 5:30 p.m. daily; last reservation, 9 p.m.
Prices: About $130 to $160 for two without drinks
Call: 923-6552
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com- excellent;