The summer roll is a fresh counterpart to the spring roll, the fried Asian savory filled with minced meats and vegetables.

There are Thai and Vietnamese versions of the summer roll (in the Philippines it's called fresh lumpia). Each healthful model features paper-thin rice-flour wrappers filled with raw veggies, such as romaine lettuce, carrots, cucumber, Maui onions, bean sprouts, radish sprouts, alfalfa sprouts, mint and basil.

Variations of meat can include cooked chicken, pork, shrimp, fish and fish cake or shiitake mushrooms, wheat gluten and tofu. Premade wrappers and bottled dipping sauces are readily available in Asian markets and the Asian section of most supermarkets.

Secrets of great summer rolling are to use the freshest ingredients, to moisten the rice-paper wrappers until they are pliable but not too wet, and to roll the bundles tightly.

An anatomy of a summer roll follows, courtesy of assistant chef Cham Quach of Hale Vietnam restaurant, a 10-year-old Kaimuki eatery where two summer rolls, or goi cuon (pronounced: goy koong), sell for $4.25. Another recipe follows for Singha Thai Cuisine restaurant's summer rolls featuring Hawaii Regional Cuisine touches of blackened-ahi and a butter-laced ginger-sesame-soy dressing.

Cham Quach of Hale Vietnam displays all the ingredients for refreshing summer rolls and a peanut dipping sauce.

Step by step: 1. Immerse a rice-paper wrapper half way in hot water - revolving twice - for about 4 seconds total; place it on a clean, flat surface and quickly pat smooth. 2. Layer the following ingredients, in order, toward one side of the rice-paper wrapper: shrimp, lettuce, mint, pork, sprouts, noodles and onion flakes. 3. Fold right side of rice-paper wrapper toward center and quickly pat smooth; then fold left side and pat. 4. Fold short end over filling. 5. Roll gently - but firmly and tightly - until you have formed a neat oblong bundle. If desired, garnish with 3 sprigs of chives coming out of one end of each summer roll. Slice each roll in half diagonally.

1 10-inch round rice-paper wrapper (such as Banh Trang brand "Galettes de Riz," which come in 12-ounce packages from Singapore)
3 shrimp halves (lengthwise), peeled, boiled and sliced
3 small pieces fresh romaine lettuce with center rib removed
1-1/2 tablespoons of fresh mint
1 4-by-2-1/2-by-1/8-inch slice boiled lean pork
1-1/2 tablespoons bean sprouts
3 tablespoons rice-stick noodles (such as Sailing Boat brand of China), boiled 15 minutes, drained, rinsed in cold water, drained again
Crispy onion flakes (round onion - chopped and deep-fried), optional

1. Immerse 1 rice-paper wrapper half way in hot water - revolving twice - about 4 seconds total; lay it on a clean, flat surface and briefly pat smooth.

2. Layer the filler in order as stated in recipe, toward 1 side of rice-paper wrapper:

3. Fold right side of rice-paper wrapper toward center and briefly pat smooth; then fold left side toward center and briefly pat smooth. Finally, fold short end over filling and continue rolling - gently, but firmly and tightly - until you have formed a neat oblong bundle.

4. If desired, garnish with 3 sprigs of chives coming out of 1 end of each summer roll. Slice each roll diagonally in half.

5. Serve with dipping sauce; see recipe below.

Note: For vegetarian summer roll, you can substitute boiled long rice (bean thread) in place of rice-stick noodle, sliced wheat gluten in place of shrimp, and sliced tofu in place of pork; saute all of these in vegetable oil and add to filling.

10 teaspoons mochi-peanut sauce (see note)
1 teaspoon chopped peanuts
1 teaspoon hoisin sauce
1 teaspoon fish-sauce mixture (see note)
1/2 teaspoon hot chile-pepper sauce (ground chiles) or to taste
1/2 teaspoon grated and pickled carrot and daikon (see note)

Note: To prepare mochi-peanut sauce: Combine 1 cup EACH regular rice, mochi rice and dried mung beans; add water to 1 inch above these grains and beans. Bring to a boil and steam 1-1/4 hours or until mushy. Machine process steamed mixture with 2 tablespoons creamy peanut butter until the consistency of gruel.

For fish-sauce mixture: Combine 12 parts fish sauce, 6 parts water, 5 parts sugar, 4 parts lemon juice and 4 parts vinegar.

For carrots: Combine 5 parts water, 5 parts sugar and 3 parts vinegar. Shred 5 to 10 parts carrot and 1 part daikon (Asian radish); sprinkle with salt to taste. To the vegetables, add vinegar mixture to cover; soak 1 hour, then drain and squeeze liquid out.

Summer rolls:

2 strips (each 5/8-by-5/8-by-6 inches) fresh ahi (yellowfin tuna)
2 strips (each about 5/8-by-5/8-by-6 inches) fresh ono (wahoo) or kajiki (Pacific blue marlin)
1/2 cup blackening pepper mix (your own mix or Cajun mix)
4 12-inch rice-paper wrappers
1/3 cup radish sprouts
1/3 cup enoki mushrooms
1/2 cup shredded carrot
1/2 cup shredded green mango (may substitute green apple)
1/2 cup julienned cucumbers
1/2 cup mint leaves
4 romaine lettuce leaves or 1/2 cup shredded
Toasted black and white sesame seeds for garnish, optional

Sauce:

1/2 cup low-sodium soy sauce
1/3 cup water or chicken stock
1/3 cup mirin
2 tablespoons sliced onions
2 tablespoons sliced celery
2 tablespoons shredded carrot
1 tablespoon shredded fresh ginger
Dash sesame oil, optional
1- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Meanwhile, dip fish into pepper mix. Sear fish in a frying pan, 10 to 20 seconds on each side.

Mist both sides of 2 rice-paper wrappers, using a spray bottle of water. Lay 1 wrapper on the other, a little overlapped at the edge closest to you. Wait a few moments until wrappers are pliable.

Place 1/4 of radish sprouts and enoki mushrooms at each end (right and left) of wrappers, for decoration. In the middle, layer ingredients, ending with fish and romaine lettuce on top. Roll tightly, with sprouts and mushrooms protruding out of 2 ends.

Slice roll as follows: Cut end portions straight off; then slice middle section diagonally in half. Arrange slices on a plate - standing slices on their flat cut sides. Assemble second summer roll with remaining ingredients.

To finish the presentation, stir butter into warm sauce and immediately spoon sauce around summer-roll slices. Garnish with sesame seeds. Makes 4 servings.

Note: To make vegetarian summer rolls, substitute tofu or shiitake mushrooms in place of fish.

Chef Chai Chaowasaree's summer rolls feature blackened ahi.
Singha Thai Cuisine

Savor fresh summer rolls at a pair of weekend events.

Amara Techa of Bangkok, a cook at Waipahu's year-old Paya Thai Cuisine restaurant, prepares summer rolls at the Thai-Laos Cultural Fair '96, which features other Asian foods, a candle celebration and entertainment from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday at Kapiolani Park. Admission is free. For information, call 668-7367.

Also, Jacqueline Hoang O'Harrow demonstrates how to make summer rolls in a "More Joys of Vietnamese Cuisine" class from 9 a.m. to noon Saturday at Lyon Arboretum. She also demonstrates chicken pho (soup), sticky rice with mung beans, steamed coconut, and deep-fried bananas. The demo/sampling costs $20.50. Register at 988-7378.

Next weekend, Singha Thai Cuisine executive chef Chai Chaowasaree prepares and serves his signature Blackened Ahi Summer Rolls with Ginger-Sesame-Soy Dressing at the Honolulu Academy of Arts.

"Showcase," an evening event featuring works by 45 island artists, gourmet foods and 30 fine wines, will benefit the academy's keiki programs.

The academy event features 11 top chefs, including chef/restaurateur Jean-Marie Josselin of A Pacific Cafe, who presents Ahi Tournedos au Poivre with White Truffle Mashed Potatoes. Gary Strehl, executive chef at Hawaii Prince Hotel, makes Grilled Hamachi on White Beans and Miso with Asian Minestrone.

Tickets are $50. Send checks by Tuesday made to: Showcase, Honolulu Academy of Arts, 900 S. Beretania St., Honolulu 96814-1495. Call 737-5756 for information.

Chaowasaree also is showcased at "Maui Calls," a similar food and wine fund-raiser benefiting the Maui Arts & Cultural Center.

Featured chefs include Beverly Gannon of Hali'imaile General Store, with Spicy Tuna Tartare Tostada. Edwin Goto of Lodge at Koele presents Marble of Ahi and Snapper with Black Olive Relish. And, Trey Foshee of Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows makes Seared Pancetta-Wrapped Scallops and Apple Risotto. Tickets are $50. Call 242-2787.

Finally, Kapiolani Community College hosts a monthlong "Vietnam: History and Culture Project" Sept. 16. An exhibit will feature art, documents and photographs - as of pre-111 B.C. drums from the Yale University Vietnamese art collection. The project also will offer public lectures and arts performances. The project will tour Kauai in November, Big Island in January, and Maui in February. Call 734-9285.