Model Delane Phillips, 27, shows portwine birthmarks on her chest and inner thigh before Dermablend Leg and Body cover at left, and at right, after using the makeup. Dermablend photo

But what happens when beauty problems are more than skin deep? When one's self-esteem, more than vanity, is on the line?

That's a question Diane Rupas has been dealing with for more than 20 years, and with the help of Dermablend Corrective Cosmetics, she's become an expert in the art of camouflage makeup.

Rupas suffers from vitiligo, a progressive skin disease that destroys pigment cells, causing the skin to lose color in uneven patches. It's the same disease that Michael Jackson reportedly suffers from.

She started losing color around her mouth at age 17. The color loss, she said, "can happen very fast, in seven years, or very slowly, over 40 years. It can come to a point where a person loses all his color. Mine has progressed very slowly, so it wasn't until I was in my 20s that I developed concern."

Rupas now travels the world for Dermablend as director of paramedical training, and she'll be in Hawaii until the end of the week to help men and women with their skin concerns. Camouflage makeup will help those with redness caused by rosacea or psoriasis, those with scars left by burns or surgery, age spots, too many freckles, to name a few concerns. It will also mask tattoos and varicose veins.

"These skin conditions are not life-threatening but they have psychological complications," Rupas said. "I've talked to men and women who haven't left their homes in 10, 15 years because they've felt bad about their looks.

"Society judges people instantly by their appearance - the way we look, our weight, the way we dress. If someone has a skin problem, they are made to feel less than other people."

Dermablend cosmetics have helped Barbara Barnes, who suffers from vitiligo. a skin disorder in which there is a loss of pigment. Dermablend photo

Gert Schultz works for Sears, but never discovered Dermablend until she fell, resulting in black and blue eyes and cheeks.

"I wanted to look a little better and when I came in to work, my co-workers took me over to the cosmetics counter where they said, 'Oh, we can hide that.' They had every confidence and they really covered it all.

"When I went home, my husband said, 'Boy, you sure heal fast.' "

At JC Penney, where Rupas was hosting Dermablend demonstrations yesterday, Dawn Assawamatiyanont came in to see if the makeup could work some magic on jawline scars that resulted from an accident. She noted other problems as well.

"I never had blemishes when I was younger, then with pregnancy my skin changed," Assawamatiyanont said. She added that years of playing golf left her skin with sun damage, even though she always wears a hat.

With an application of cover cream, powder and bronzer, her scar was hidden. For most people, cover cream and powder are all that's needed. The bronzer simply gives the face a little contouring and natural-looking glow.

Cover cream is matched to one's natural skin tone, with layers of coverage built up where its needed. Rupas recommends patting motions, rather than rubbing, in applying makeup.

"A lot of people rub their makeup into oblivion," she said. "They take off as much as they're putting on."

Throughout the morning session, women came in hoping to hide blemish problems and age spots. Genoveva Esoporlas wanted to hide a few dark spots and wrinkles, although at age 69 going on 70 in September, with nine children and 19 grandchildren, she said a few wrinkles are OK.

Wrinkles and other textural problems cannot be masked through camouflage cosmetics. "The makeup does not change texture," Rupas said. "It was designed to cover color. If there is a scar that's red, it will cover that so the eye is not immediately drawn to the area.

"But scars have their highs, lows, lights and dark. When we make it one color it can appear to be smoother. But the only one who can change texture is a dermatologist or plastic surgeon."

While here, Rupas will also be speaking to nurses and skin specialists who often recommend camouflage makeup after dermabrasion and post-plastic surgery when skin can remain red for up to six months.

"Laser surgery is improving drastically. Laser resurfacing can remove superficial wrinkles, but for some it's not an option.

"It would be nice if we could accept everyone as they are. Then we would have no problems," Rupas said, then realizing she'd be out of a job in such a world.

"It's OK," she said. "I'd find something else to do."

Here are some tips for covering skin imperfections:

Do apply corrective cosmetics directly to problem area for maximum coverage. On remaining areas of face, apply with a damp sponge to blend and even ourt skintone. The most common mistake women make when applying any kind of makeup is that they do not blend enough.

Do use a moisturized base to achieve the most natural look and to eliminate caking.

Do test products on the area where it will be used.

Do use a shade lighter than one's skin tone to cover an inverted scar. This creates the appearance of a smooth surface. Using a shade darker than natural skintone on a raised scar will have the same effect.

Do use a light shade as a primer to tone down color when camouflaging very dark areas such as intense bruising, age spots and tattoos. After concealing, use a shade that matches skintone to further hide the imperfections.

Do use a light patting motion, rather than rubbing in makeup.

Don't use camouflage makeup on any suspicious skin conditions, including unealed cuts and burns, active acne, or raw or irritated skin. If these conditions exist, see your doctor.

Don't assume that the color that is right for your face is right for your body. Skin on the body tends to be a shade or two darker than the face.

Diane Rupas will give free Dermablend demonstrations at the following locations:
10 a.m., July 30, J.C. Penney's Pearlridge
2 p.m. July 30, Sears Ala Moan
10 a.m. Aug. 1, Sears Windward
2 p.m. Aug. 1, Sears Pearlridge