As the story goes, Kamehameha I was born in the North Kohala district of the Big Island on a winter night in 1758, soon after Halley's Comet streaked across Hawaiian skies. His mother was Kekuiapoiwa, a niece of Kahekili, ruler of Maui. His father was Keouakalani, a grandson of Keaweikekahialiiokamoku, who once ruled a large segment of the Big Island.

The kahuna (priests) of Alapai, the king of Kohala, had prophesied that a fiery trail of light in the heavens would mark the birth of a “;killer of chiefs.”; Learning of Kamehameha's birth, Alapai was alarmed that the boy would one day usurp him and directed that he be killed.

Fearing for their son's safety, Kamehameha's parents placed him in the care of Naeole, a chief of Kohala, as soon as he was born. Naeole whisked the infant to Waipio, where he raised him for the first five years of his life. The secluded valley is nearly six miles deep and bordered by 2,000-foot-high cliffs and a mile-long black sand beach.

Known as the Valley of Kings, verdant Waipio had been the home of the alii (royalty) centuries before Kamehameha's birth. They are buried in hidden caves in the valley's towering walls. Because of the aliis' mana (divine power), Hawaiians believe Waipio's residents will always be protected from harm. That is why, they say, no one died in the devastating 1946 tsunami and 1979 flood that covered the valley in four feet of water.

In ancient times, several heiau (temples) were built in Waipio, including Pakaalana, a puuhonua (place of refuge) for defeated warriors and those who had broken the strict laws of the kapu (taboo) system. Many Hawaiian legends also take place in Waipio, including one about Nanaue, the son of Kalei, a beautiful woman of Waipio, and Kamohoalii, the king of sharks.

Nanaue grew up to be a shark man with a voracious appetite who could change form at will. As a shark, he would feed on unsuspecting villagers who were swimming and fishing in the ocean. When his dual identity was discovered, the people banded together to drive Nanaue from Waipio.

According to oral histories, up to 10,000 Hawaiians lived in Waipio before Capt. James Cook arrived in Hawaii in 1778. By the late 1800s, scores of Chinese immigrants also had settled there, subsisting by farming the fertile land. Churches, restaurants, schools, a hotel, post office and even a jail were built to support the growing community.

After the tsunami and flood destroyed their homes and crops, most of Waipio's residents left. Today only about 200 people remain—primarily taro farmers and fishermen who relish their simple, off-the-grid lifestyle. The only way to get into the valley is via a steep (25 percent grade) half-mile road that's accessible only by foot or four-wheel-drive vehicle.

Hawaii Forest & Trail's Waipio Rim Hike Adventure traverses three miles in 2 1/2 hours on a scenic loop trail above the storied valley.

“;We walk along the edge of cliffs and get an incredible view of it,”; said Garry Dean, an interpretive guide who often leads the tour. “;We see two rivers, taro farms, the ocean, native forest and numerous waterfalls, including 1,400-foot Hiilawe, which is one of the tallest falls in Hawaii. We view it from a lookout on private property that's not commonly known or readily accessible to the public.”;

Most of the trail is shaded by thick stands of hapuu fern and ohia lehua, kukui, silk oak and eucalyptus trees. Along the route, participants may sample guava, strawberry guava, lilikoi (passion fruit), banana and other luscious fruit. Dean advises them to keep a sharp eye out for wild pigs, io (Hawaiian hawks) and the leiothrix, a pretty songbird known for its olive green body, bright red bill and yellow-orange throat.

His narration is chock-full of interesting tidbits about Waipio's history, including tales of gods and goddesses who Hawaiians assert still make the valley their home. Among those are the four major Hawaiian gods: Ku, Lono, Kane and Kanaloa.

“;A few months ago we had a guest on the tour who grew up in Waipio,”; Dean said. “;She shared stories from her childhood with the group. When she talked about hearing drums beating at night as she lay in bed, everybody got chicken skin. She imagined the gods were rallying troops of spirit warriors. That may or may not have been true, but there's no doubt the valley is magical and mystical.”;

Among the tour's many visual highlights is Dead Drop, the point where a usually dry stream bed runs to the edge of 1,000-foot-high cliffs. One by one, Dean invites hikers to admire the spectacular panorama of the valley below.

“;Waipio hasn't changed much in centuries,”; Dean said. “;Very few places like that still exist in the islands. It's interesting to take the bits and pieces of information that we have about pre-contact Waipio and speculate about what life used to be like there. The Waipio Rim Hike Adventure enables visitors to experience old Hawaii in a safe and respectful manner, make new friends and enjoy time in nature. It all adds up to a fantastic day!”;

Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based freelance writer whose travel features for the Star-Bulletin have won multiple Society of American Travel Writers awards.