"The Choy of Cooking," Mutual Publishing
Chef Sam Choy's Honomalino lamb is marinated
in hoisin sauce and spices.

Green eggs...
and lamb

These symbols of spring and rebirth
are Easter basics

Star-Bulletin staff and wire

Whether for family gatherings, religious observances or simply to welcome the warmer weather, the special occasions of spring call for special indulgences.

So if company's coming for Easter, consider a rack of lamb, roasted with coarse mustard and rosemary. Or fire up the grill for a butterflied leg of lamb that's been doused in balsamic vinegar and mint jelly.

"We always see sales go up this time of the year because of the Easter holiday," said Laura Gerhard of the American Sheep Industry Association. "People do tend to think of it as a special-occasion meat, but it's much more versatile. You can fry it, barbecue it and braise it."

Lamb can be found in most groceries, with the more upscale markets offering a wide range of cuts, from chops to shoulders, racks to legs.

(Boneless range-fed Australian leg of lamb is $4.49 per pound at Star Markets and $3.99 at Times Super Market. Safeway Club members can buy whole leg of lamb for $3.49 a pound -- $3.69 to nonmembers --while Foodland offers the leg for $3.99 and the rack for $4.99. Star has whole or shank half legs for $1.99 a pound.

(Island-raised lamb from Kahua Ranch of Kawaihae is served on the menu at Alan Wong's Restaurant on Oahu and is available on the Big Island at KTA Super Stores, Sure Save and on Merriman's restaurant's menu.)

"On the Rise," L.A.K. Enterprises
Chef Russell Siu's Pulehu lamb chops are seasoned with
Hawaiian sea salt, garlic, rosemary and thyme.

The traditional preparation is roasting, which lamb is particularly suited for because the relatively high fat content keeps it moist. Tender cuts like the breast, rack, loin, sirloin and leg can be cooked in a dry heat -- grilled, broiled or roasted. Less tender cuts like the shank, crosscuts or chuck generally require moist heat such as braising and stewing.

Alison Lueker, a chef based in Atlanta, said many people tend to go with chops, because it's a familiar cut. But she urges experimentation.

"A leg of lamb is big and kind of intimidating. But you can have the butcher remove the bone from the leg and have a special cut of meat that can feed 10 people," said Lueker.

Her key is to marinate most lamb cuts for a day before cooking. "I think marinades with something acidic in them work best. I like to combine buttermilk, Dijon mustard and tons and tons of garlic and rosemary," said Lueker.

Garlic and rosemary are, perhaps, the two most common cooking complements for lamb. Mint and spring vegetables are also perfect partners. Try those basics, or experiment with these variations on the lamb theme.

Pulehu lamb chops

"On the Rise," by Russell Siu, L.A.K. Enterprises, 1996

8 double lamb chops

Marinade:
1/2 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon 'alaea salt (pink-colored Hawaiian sea salt)
1 teaspoon cracked pepper
1/4 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped
1/4 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped

Combine marinade ingredients; let stand 15 minutes. Toss lamb chops in marinade; then marinate 6 hours in refrigerator. Grill chops over kiawe or plain charcoal to desired degree of doneness. Makes 4 servings.

Approximate nutritional analysis per serving, with 3/4 marinade soaked in: 540 calories, 36 grams fat, 9 grams saturated fat, 175 milligrams cholesterol, 1,900 milligrams sodium.*

Honomalino lamb with satay sauce

"The Choy of Cooking," by Sam Choy
and Kekoa Catherine Enomoto, Mutual Publishing, 1996

2 to 2-1/2 pounds boneless lamb loin

Marinade:
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced ginger
1 tablespoon cilantro
1 tablespoon minced fresh basil
1/2 teaspoon red chile flakes
Salt and pepper to taste

Satay sauce:
2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 cup minced onion
1 teaspoon minced ginger
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 cup minced fresh Thai basil
3/4 cup peanut butter
2 tablespoons orange juice
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon chile-garlic sauce
1-1/2 cups coconut milk

Combine marinade ingredients and rub mixture into lamb. Marinate 4 to 6 hours in refrigerator, turning lamb occasionally. Broil lamb to desired doneness. Slice and serve with satay sauce.

To prepare satay sauce, heat oil and saute onion, ginger, garlic and basil until onion is translucent. Stir in peanut butter, orange juice, sugar and chile garlic sauce. Cook on low heat 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in coconut milk and cook until heated through. Cool to room temperature. Makes 1-1/2 cups.

Approximate nutritional analysis per serving, based on 8 servings without sauce: 490 calories, 41 grams total fat, 17 grams saturated, 105 milligrams cholesterol, 440 milligrams sodium. Per 2-tablespoon serving of sauce: 90 calories, 8 grams total fat, 3.5 grams saturated fat, no cholesterol, 40 milligrams sodium.*

Honey-glazed roast lamb

American Lamb Council

1 boned, rolled leg of lamb, 4 to 6 pounds
3 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon garlic salt
1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Combine honey, vinegar, garlic salt and pepper. Place lamb on a rack in a roasting pan; brush with glaze mixture. Roast 2 to 4 hours to desired doneness, brushing occasionally with glaze. Serves 12.

Approximate nutritional analysis per serving: 256 calories, 11 grams fat, 5 grams saturated, 108 milligrams cholesterol, 235 milligrams sodium.*

Baa baa basics

Trim the fat: Lamb fat burns at a lower temperature than other fats, producing an odor some people dislike. Marinating also curbs any gamey taste or smell.

Don't overheat: Roast lamb at 325 degrees.

Don't overcook: You're done when a meat thermometer registers 150 degrees for medium rare, 160 degrees for medium. A well-done lamb may get tough.

Let it rest: Remove lamb from the oven 5 degrees shy of desired temperature, cover with foil and allow to rest 10 to 20 minutes.

Portions: Allow 1/4- to- 1/3 of a pound of boneless lamb per serving, or 1/3- to- 1/2 pound of bone-in lamb per serving.

Bone vs. boneless: Bone-in cuts are usually more flavorful, but a boneless roast is easier to handle and serve.

Mary had a little lamb—
but not for dinner

Annual per-capita consumption of lamb in the United States is down to slightly less than a pound, not even half of what it was 25 years ago.

But because lamb also is so versatile, the industry is hoping that the growing popularity of ethnic foods -- particularly North African, Provencal, Indian, Greek and Irish -- will encourage a revival of interest.

What about the eggs?