AH, the cycle of life. To a kid it's measured in the span between Christmases. To a teen it might be measured from one grade level to the next. Torito’s serves up good,
basic Mexican eatsRestaurants, too, experience cycles. About eight years ago, we witnessed the beginning of what would become the glorious age of Hawaiian regional cuisine. But with the slide in the state's economy, the days of the grand openings are over.
These days, when people ask me what's new, I'm almost ashamed to answer. I can't name one "great" restaurant that opened within the last year.
But I would define this period as being realistic. With diners more budget-conscious than ever, restaurateurs are opting to serve humble fare, rather than the stuff of fantasy. There's nothing wrong with that. It's just that these restaurants register on a diner's consciousness with more of a blip than a bang. These are places you can return to again and again, even if you're not raving about them to everyone you know.
Torito's is one of the new entries to the scene. Unlike some other pretentious local establishments, Torito's makes no great claims of Mexican authenticity. But Torito's is doing its best to bring such no-nonsense fare as nachos, burritos, tacos, steaks and ribs to the Kaimuki-Kapiolani community.
The cuisine is not fancy or frilly, but there are a few pleasant surprises that appeal to a range of people from the looks of the clientele -- young, old, moneyed and not.
WE got started on the standard complementary chips and salsa. The salsa was rather bland and could have used a sprinkling of onions. I also complained that it wasn't very hot, before learning it was one of those stealth salsas, where the heat builds and builds.It's not unusual for some of the male customers to devour five baskets of chips with the salsa, which makes an order of nachos rather superfluous. Nevertheless, you can get nachos topped with a choice of cheese, beef, chicken or chili for $5.75 to $7.50.
Mexican standards can be ordered a la carte, priced at $5.50 for two tacos to $7.45 for a burrito, or as a complete meal for $2 more. The complete meal comes with Mexican rice, refried beans, salad and salsa.
If it's fancier fare you want, Torito's delivers in the form of fajitas made with your choice of beef ($12.95), chicken ($12.95) or shrimp and scallops ($14.95).
It's possible for two light eaters to share. The shrimp and scallop version, for instance, comes with four soft flour tortillas and beans, plus an extra plate laden with rice, greens, sour cream and guacamole. This is in addition to the buttery-tasting shrimp and scallops, stir-fried with yellow, green and red bell peppers, onions and yellow squash.
Those who like red meat will find Grilled Top Sirloin Steak ($13.95), Pepper Striploin ($15.95), Beef Ribs ($12.95) and Baby Back Pork Ribs ($12.95 half slab, $16.95 full). These come with a choice of Mexican rice, baked potato or giant , thick potato wedges.
The pork ribs were OK, but suffered from reheating. The chicken hindquarter from the Baby Back Ribs and Chicken Combo ($15.95) was tasty, tender and with golden, crispy skin.
No desserts are offered, but Zack's Famous Frozen Yogurt is next door. Good enough.
Torito's Mexican Food
Where: Market City Shopping Center, 2919 Kapiolani Blvd.
Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily; 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Prices: About $20 to $35 for two
Call: 735-7991
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