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By The Glass
Kevin Toyama
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Oak barrels play key role in fine wine
Oak in a wine for me is something of an enigma, though I know it's usually a good thing. The use of oak barrels imparts structure, aromatics and complexity ... when used judiciously.
Just as winemakers depend upon quality fruit, the best coopers (barrel makers) depend upon oak trees of the highest quality from the finest forests.
Old by human standards, oak trees are harvested somewhere between 150 to 200 years old. The logs are kept moist, then cut into barrel staves after a year, but allowed to cure for two to three. Extended air aging allows the wood to season properly. The often-mentioned size or tightness of the grain regulates how quickly oak becomes assimilated by the wine as it matures. Medium- to tight-grained wood is most coveted.
In most of the Old World (wine-producing regions more than 300 years old) wines are typically named after a village or region. The same goes for the finest oak forests used for barrel production in France.
The heart of oak territory lies in central France, in the main forests of Nevers and neighboring Allier. While both are highly valued, winemakers of fuller-bodied reds tend to favor the medium-grained Nevers. Tighter-grained Allier oak works well with a wider range, from full-bodied reds to lighter elegant wines.
Within these two areas are the smaller forests of Bertrange and Troncais. Oak from Bertrange is medium-tight-grained and favored for pinot noir and chardonnay development. Troncais is especially prized for its extremely tight, slow-giving grain and the textured mouthfeel it produces in wines. I often find that some of the finest white and red Burgundies (chardonnays and pinot noirs) from France have been matured in Troncais oak.
Limousin oak flourishes in the northeast corner around the Vosges Mountains near the German border. Its characteristics are said to be similar to American oak. Due to the generous, larger-grained profile, it is generally considered for brandy and distilled spirits.
American coopers based in Napa Valley, such as Seguin Moreau and Demptos, use fine French oak. Less costly alternatives are made with American, Slavonian, Hungarian and Russian oak, yet premium dollars - upward of $800 per barrel - are still spent by many top wineries on the finest imported barrels made by French coopers Francois Freres and Tarransaud. Smaller coopers of comparable quality include Rousseau, Remond and Cadus.
Hugh Chappelle, who creates elegant chardonnays and pinot noirs at Lynmar Winery in Sonoma, uses a range of young and old barrels (brand new plus some 2 to 3 years old) to create a palette of flavors and textures. A chardonnay can be aged in Freres Allier and Remond Allier to start. Or a pinot could reflect the subtle influence of Cadus, Remond, Freres, Seguin Moreau and Rousseau barrels from various forests. Just as long as the oak doesn't overstate its presence.
Chapelle's 2005 Russian River Valley chardonnay ($35) and pinot noir ($40) are skillful examples of a well-balanced style that is nuanced, not overshadowed, by oak.
In Part 2 of this discussion on Oct. 8, we'll look at barrel production, how a wine changes in the barrel and who is the "Lefthander" making waves with his skillfully crafted wines due out this fall.
Kevin Toyama is a sommelier at the Halekulani and an advanced certificate holder from the Court of Master Sommeliers. This column is a weekly lesson on wine written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
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