By The Glass Kevin Toyama

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Enjoy more variety with half bottles

One of my first memorable encounters with upscale cuisine was a senior prom many years ago -- dining at the Spindrifter in Kahala Mall. My classmate and I were on a double date looking GOOD in our tuxedos. Our dates were quite impressed that these boys from Kalihi cleaned up so well.

I was a class act all the way up to the fateful moment when our first courses arrived. I tasted mine and in astonishment sputtered out, "THIS SOUP IS COLD!"

My date asked what I ordered. I lifted the bowl and discovered it sitting on a bowl of ice. My friend said, "Of course, it is. Vichyssoise is a chilled potato soup."

Fast forward. While I now know my way around a menu fairly well, I am still an adventurous diner who often tries the unfamiliar and experiments in the kitchen at home. Because food and wine have been an integral part of my adult life, I am constantly looking for new ways to fine tune my cooking, as well as hone my blind-tasting skills by trying more wines.

To expand my wine horizons, I've taken to half-bottles -- a great way to experience variety while maintaining freshness for just a nominal increase in price.

I can recall 15 or so years ago when half-bottles were in abundance; but they've grown short in supply and demand. Producers struggled with maintaining profitability, adjusting their bottling and packing lines to accommodate the smaller-sized unit amid a cork shortage.

The modernization of wine-by-the-glass programs and the introduction of the Cruvinet wine-service system allowed restaurateurs and consumers alike to extend a larger bottle's shelf-life. As a result, many wineries discontinued the smaller format.

Over the past year, I've noticed an increase of half-bottle selections. I am happy to herald the return of the half-bottle with a few of my favorites:

For a crisp white with lighter cuisine, consider the gruner veltliner grape from Austrian producer Hirsch "Helligenstein" 2006 ($21). A warmer-textured Chardonnay Premier Cru Chablis by Herve Azo 2006 ($38) with brisk mineral and citrus tones is great with shellfish or as an aperitif.

Moderate- to fuller-flavored whites include the rich and floral Napa Valley sauvignon blanc by Duckhorn Vineyards 2006 ($26), "Dutton Ranch Vineyard" Chardonnay 2006 by Patz & Hall ($39) and a great French meursault by Francois Jobard 2004 ($41) with wonderful hints of golden apples, brioche and a surprisingly long finish.

Light to moderately textured reds include the elegant berry-toned Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir by Merry Edwards 2005 ($38) and a classic Rioja Reserva by Bodegas Muga 2003 ($) with its classic cedar, dried-cherry and blackberry nuances.

Toward the fuller flavors of bolder reds, a soulfully rich bandol by Domaine Tempier 2005 ($60) from the mourvedre grape compliments roasts, lamb and heartier cuisine.

Whether for the pleasure of enjoying a memorable wine or experimenting in the kitchen, consider the selection of half-bottles at your local wine shop.

In Vinos Veritas.