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By Request
Betty Shimabukuro
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Bittermelon is less bitter in pickles
WHEN the question involves bittermelon, you have to turn to the Okinawans. This is their territory.
"My 74-year-old brother has the ono for the bittermelon namasu," June Wong wrote. "Could you give me the recipe?"
In Okinawa, bittermelon is goya and namasu is namashi. Bottom line, we're talking about Japanese-style pickles, but not in the sense of puckery dill pickles. Namasu involves gentle pickling in a bath of sugar and vinegar, normally using cucumbers or daikon (turnip).
The first recipe here comes from "Okinawan Mixed Plate" (Hui O Laulima, 2000); the second from Mits Higa, who won last year's goya recipe contest at the Taste of Okinawa.
Now, bittermelon is not the sole province of Okinawans. The National Bitter Melon Council is based in Boston and promotes "the myriad health benefits and culinary possibilities" of the bumpy green gourd.
The council's Web site, www.bittermelon.org, suggests light pickling as a good way to reduce the bitterness. Blanching or salting slices first also is handy in moderating the strong flavor.
Bittermelon also is good stuffed and steamed, or in combination with meats or vegetables in strong soy-based or even curry flavors. For ideas, visit the Web site.
Goya Namashi
1 pound bittermelon
» Sauce:
1/3 cup white toasted sesame seeds, ground
3 tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons rice vinegar
3 tablespoons water
Cut bittermelon in half lengthwise; remove seeds. Thinly slice diagonally. Sprinkle with salt and let stand 20 minutes. Rinse and drain well.
Combine sauce ingredients and pour over bittermelon. Mix and refrigerate. Serves 6.
Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving: 80 calories, 3.5 g total fat, no saturated fat or cholesterol, 5 mg sodium, 13 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 7 g sugar, 2 g protein.
Goya Nu-a-Mu
2 medium bittermelon, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup rice vinegar
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 tablespoon sliced wakame (seaweed)
2 tablespoons sliced fishcake
1 teaspoon sliced ginger
Lemon slices, to garnish
Soak bittermelon in water and add salt. Let sit 30 minutes; drain.
Toss with remaining ingredients and refrigerate until ready to serve. Garnish with lemon slices. Serves 6.
Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving: 160 calories, no fat or cholesterol, 750 mg sodium, 40 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 35 g sugar, 1 g protein.
Send queries along with name and phone number to: "By Request," Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 500 Ala Moana, No. 7-210, Honolulu 96813. Or send e-mail to
bshimabukuro@starbulletin.com