Weekly Eater Nadine Kam

---

Japan newcomer bridges local gap

When people find out that I write about restaurants, they feel compelled to ask for recommendations, whether they want one or not. I find that most of the time they're asking the wrong question. Lurking behind the request is simply a desire for validation that our tastes align -- "Tell me your favorite restaurants and we'll see if our lists match up."

Gazen 2840 Kapiolani Blvd. (formerly Bea's) / 737-0230 Food: 1/2 Service: Ambience: Value: 1/2 Hours: 5 to 11:45 p.m. daily Cost: $25 to $35 for two, without drinks

With dozens of new Japanese restaurants having opened in the past year, one man asked me which he should try, so I ran down a list, only to have him shoot down those he considered too novel, too traditional, too smoky, too Korean, etc. It turns out it's not Japan-style Japanese restaurants he's interested in, but local-style Japanese food and plate lunches like Rainbow Drive-In's.

He had no desire to change or explore. But, like dinosaurs, those bridge eateries connecting plantation-day to modern Hawaii are dying out as a younger generation shows little interest in taking over such businesses that require hard work with little pay-off in glam factor.

I was thinking about all these things when I sat down to dinner at Gazen. Yes, another stylish Japanese restaurant, but, as it turns out, one with substance to match.

Gazen may be the bridge that the previous gentleman needs to cross to join the 21st century. What a coincidence that it's housed at the site of the former Bea's Drive-In across from Market City Shopping Center, and seems to be drawing an even mix of Japanese and locals. Foodwise, it's more Japan than Hawaii, but, maybe just because I grew up here, I associate local food with comfort food, and Gazen's menu is full of comfort foods, starting with something as basic as zaru tofu ($5.75), made fresh on site.

One woman I know flocks to this place because the tofu reminds her of what her mother made back home in Japan, such that she insisted we place two orders because, "I can eat the whole one by myself."

Pretty brazen for any woman to admit, though that might be considered code for izakaya-size portions.

Instead, I also ordered the tofu in a broth of soy milk and dashi ($6.75). The tofu, served slightly chilled to maintain its sweetness, has little in common with the grocery-store variety to which most of us have grown accustomed. Or not. Those who insist they hate tofu may change their minds with this dish as rich, silky and seemingly decadent as a dense flan, though with a rougher texture. It is so good that I was skeptical -- there must be something bad in it. But no, the soupy version is just the result of mixing mashed soy beans, water and nigari, served up with a dash of salt and spices and a sprinkling of green onions.

I quickly became as addicted to the tofu as my Japanese friend, and whatever was ordered after that didn't matter much. I was already content. The lengthy cocktail list also helps in this regard.

THOSE WHO NEED a steak-and-onions fix can get that in an order of grilled beef ($8.75), accompanied by bits of goat cheese and a gritty dipping sauce of salt, coarse ground pepper and sesame oil. There's not much steak to a serving, but the sauce makes it memorable. If there's more than one man at your table, you may need two of these dishes as well.

Tsukune ($5.75) is served as a ground chicken patty that, sauce and all, comes close to mimicking the flavor and texture of foie gras. So clever, considering all the controversy surrounding the real thing.

More basic, you'll find appetizers of salmon carpaccio and avocado ($8.50) and slices of ahi and avocado summer rolls ($8.75) that are not as splashy as other offerings. For a variation on edamame, Gazen boils the soy beans, then soaks them in red tea ($3.75) for added flavor.

If you're looking for something like a plate lunch, there is grilled pork ($11.75) served in mild creamy garlic sauce with flecks of watercress, and grilled hen with a truly garlicky tomato-herb sauce ($9.75), both served with a tangle of capellini and small salad of mizuna.

Salads and rice dishes round out the menu, and teishoku dishes are on the way. Finish with unusual dessert offerings of creme brulee and ice cream with dots of sesame sauce ($4.75) or sweet potato mochi and ice cream afloat in a pool of Earl Grey sauce ($4.75).