One last bite at Forty Niner

After 59 years in business, Aiea's Forty Niner Restaurant is closing its doors

OUTSIDE of the Forty Niner Restaurant in Aiea, a steady stream of loyal diners lined up along the sidewalk waiting for their final taste of saimin and cheeseburgers.

"It's an end of an era," Mililani resident Eric Daido said on Sunday.

The family-owned Restaurant at 98-110 Honomanu St. was to shut its doors for good yesterday, after serving generations of families for 59 years.

Many came back not only for a final taste of the ono food, but they wanted to see the friendly staff, whose service exemplified the spirit of aloha.

Daido, a loyal customer for more than 12 years, recalled how he and his 11-year-old son, Tyler, headed to the restaurant after spending a day at the beach, when it just closed. An employee who was cleaning inside saw them through the window and motioned them to come inside.

Daido said staff served them as they continued to clean up the store.

On Sunday, the owners of the Forty Niner were touched by so much adulation. Family members and friends of owner Richard Chagami busily carried trays of bowls of hot saimin with its tasty broth and plates of cheeseburger deluxe from the kitchen to diners. The number of customers quadrupled within the last week after word of the closure got out.

They had to set up a large portable stove behind the restaurant to cope with orders.

Slices of buttercream cake were passed out to diners, thanking them for their patronage. Banner signs that read, "Thank you for your support for 59 years" were posted inside.

Chagami's niece, Kathleen Ogata, carried a tray filled with cups of juice to patrons lined up outside as they waited for a vacant table or a stool.

Ogata wiped away tears when she said how she will miss seeing family and friends gather at the restaurant, recalling how they would celebrate New Year's at the eatery, which started out as a lunchwagon operated by Elia Niau.

Chagami's parents purchased the lunchwagon, named after the Gold Rush, from Niau.

When Chagami and his brother, Henry, returned to Hawaii after serving in the 442nd Regimental Combat Team during World War II, their parents decided to build the restaurant, which opened in August 1947.

Chagami handled the daily operations while Henry, who died in 2004, handled the bookkeeping. Over the years, Chagami's nine other siblings also helped out.

In the beginning, they served mostly banana splits, ice cream floats and sodas. The menu later changed to plate lunches, saimin and burgers.

Chagami, 89, who lives next to the restaurant, continues to work daily, cooking the tasty beef cutlet on the grill, mixing hamburger mix or concocting the broth for the saimin.

In recent years, Chagami's younger sister, Jennie Tsuchidana, served as the restaurant manager.

The stools and tables used by diners are the same ones used when the restaurant first opened.

"I still don't wanna quit," Chagami said.

But the closure will allow him to spend more time shoreline fishing for ulua.

Niece Pat Otsuka-Spencer said a shortage of employees forced Chagami to close. New owners are expected to reopen the restaurant at a later date.

By 12:30 p.m. more than 20 people waited in line, hoping to enjoy one of their favorite dishes at the restaurant.

"You don't see many of these places. It's sad," said Jonathan Barkley, a regular diner from Mililani who has been coming to the Forty Niner daily since last week when he got the sad news.

Like many, Barkley plans to return to the restaurant yesterday to enjoy one last bite of cheeseburger deluxe and a hot bowl of saimin.