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By The Glass
Jay Kam
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Pacific Oasis wines step up
DANIEL GEHRS, a respected consultant and winemaker for nearly 30 years, stopped by recently with a taste of his new project, Pacific Oasis, wines that come from a region with a very bright future, Santa Barbara, Calif.
What strikes me most about the wines is the style -- clean, unobtrusive oak, fruity, complex, elegant and balanced. The trend in wine is moving away from huge, monolithic, oaky, over-extracted wines and toward the style that Pacific Oasis is making. Why? This style is food-friendly, meant to enhance a meal and not overpower the food. It is not the star of the show, but an important part of a successful duet.
This style also does not cause palate fatigue, and can be enjoyed sip after sip. It was a pleasure to taste them.
2005 Pacific Oasis Chardonnay ($13.99): No wood is used in this brilliant, fruit-driven white wine. Tropical fruit, apple, peach and grapefruit can all be found here, along with a slight mineral quality that makes it very similar to a white Burgundy from the Maconnais. Try a pasta dish with a rich sauce such as alfredo with this wine.
2004 Pacific Oasis Merlot ($17.99): This rich, dark, smooth wine is classically produced and aged in French oak barrels, accenting the ripe black cherry, leather and black tea flavors. Small percentages of cabernet franc and sauvignon add structure, texture and weight. This would be fine with some grilled portobello mushrooms or a basic roast chicken.
2004 Pacific Oasis Pinot Noir ($17.99): Santa Barbara is known for its pinot noir. This wine shows off black cherry, spice, sweet earth and that elusive silky, velvety texture that is versatile with a lavish range of cuisine. You'll also find tinges of vanilla and spice. The leaner style lends itself well to fish dishes such as salmon or game such as duck or rabbit.
Jay Kam is president of Vintage Wine Cellar. This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to
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