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By The Glass
Roberto Viernes
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The right reds go well with summer grilling
IN HAWAII we have summer all year long, right? Yet, what's on everyone's schedule once the calendar says it's summer? Barbecues, cookouts and fun in the sun are what I'm thinking about. But just because the temperature goes up a couple of degrees, are you going to try to cool down with white or even rosé wines? If you are a die-hard red wine drinker, I doubt it. So here are some reds I've tasted recently that are a good match for the foods of summer.
Juicy barbecue sauce-drenched ribs make an appearance on almost every grill. That's exactly what I thought about when I tasted the 2004 Mantra Reserve Zinfandel ($26). Zinfandel is known for being quite juicy, with tons of exuberant berry fruit and rich, luxurious texture. This zinfandel is no exception. It hums with yummy flavor, but on top of that, it's NOT one of those zinfandels that reaches nearly port-type alcohol levels, so you can actually drink more than one glass, or even more than one bottle -- with friends, that is. It's big enough for steaks and lamb, too, making it quite versatile.
Kalbi ribs or marinated meats are another sure thing for picnics and the grill. Everyone has their own recipe and secret ingredients, but they all start with soy sauce and sugar. For this, I find myself reaching for a bottle of shirr -- that gulpable, fun and funny-labeled wine from Australia.
My latest pick is the new 2002 Archetype Reserve Old Vines Shiraz ($26). This is a large scale, BIG bruddah of a wine: thick with almost jammy flavors, sweet vanillin and long finish. Most of the grapes are from vines 50 years old or older. They give the wine a wonderful intensity and complexity of flavor. A sure pleaser for red-wine drinkers around the barbie, mate!
And after just returning from Bordeaux, I would be remiss if I didn't mention the 2003 Chateau Coufran ($25). This estate in the Medoc is quite unique in that it uses mainly merlot grapes -- about 85 percent -- whereas most other estates use a majority of cabernet sauvignon in their blends.
That's not the only thing that makes it special -- it is a tremendous value. It has a beautiful scent of sweet black fruits, a nice touch of Spanish cedar and a really smooth and elegant palate feel, with much more intensity and complexity than most Bordeaux at this price point. It tastes like a wine that should be more expensive. Try it with grilled burgers or a grilled leg of lamb, and you'll see what I'm talking about.
So have fun out there. And as a reminder, even a bottle of red wine should be cooled down a bit so it will taste better in the sun and be more refreshing. And don't forget the sun block!
Cheers!
Roberto Viernes is a master sommelier and wine educator with Southern Wine & Spirits. This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to
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