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By The Glass
Chuck Furuya
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California's pinot noir ranks high
PINOT NOIR is a hot commodity -- finally! It was at the 1985 Wine Spectator Experience in San Francisco that I heard Robert Mondavi stand and declare that California would one day produce pinot noirs that would rival the world's very best. It was such a controversial statement, it had the room buzzing for quite some time.
Last month I was a part of a group of tasters who had the incredible opportunity to try 29 of California's top pinot noirs. It was an amazing experience, especially considering how far California has come through the painstaking effort of its winemakers.
Prices are getting up there, that's for sure. But it ain't easy, and it ain't cheap, to make really good pinot. Here are some highlights of the day:
The2003 Au Bon Climat "Santa Maria" ($22) is an absolutely lovely pinot -- elegant, enticingly fragrant and seductive, full of finesse and with truly superb texture. I am continually amazed at how Au Bon Climat rises to the top in each blind tasting I attend.
The2002 Scherrer "Russian River" ($35) has such a lovely perfume ... alluring, seductive and all one would expect from a California pinot. It was also lovely on the palate -- elegant, suave, divinely textured with great balance.
AnotherAu Bon Climat, the 2004 "La Bauge Au-dessus"($29) was one of the belles of the ball for the day. This very feminine pinot has such terrific, captivating perfume, seductive texture and wonderful balance.
On the other hand, the2004 Melville "Estate" ($26) was much more showy and outgoing. Definitively contemporary, this snazzy California pinot is a style our restaurant customers absolutely love.
The2002 Costa de Oro "Oro Rojo" ($39) has a more earthy, rustic, Burgundian "funk" to it. I believe there is a big chunk of Old Vine Martini clone blended in, which would explain the wine's lighter color and more reticent, intricate, very refined personality -- which is why I bought some.
Again, from Au Bon Climat, the2003 "Sanford & Benedict" ($47) was another standout in a field of Big Kahunas. Real stony and earthy, it is sublime, intricate and brimming with finesse, class and pedigree. The wine has divine texture and wonderful balance.
Whitcraft's2004 "Morning Dew Vineyard" ($47) is produced from grapes from the Anderson Valley vineyard of Burt Williams' (of Williams & Selyem fame). Williams planted a collection of handpicked clones and pinot selections, such as old Rochioli. The '04 is an incredible wine, much more reserved and surprisingly sublime than most Whitcraft pinots. Despite the youthful age of the vines, the resulting wine has pedigree, not just ripe, forward, clonal-distinctive fruit. It is classy and refined, two words not normally associated with Whitcraft pinot. I loved the wine and will be closely monitoring future bottlings.
Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the Sansei restaurants.
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