Hawaii’s Back Yard Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi

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Awestruck & Active

HoloHolo Charters' Napali-Niihau Super Tour keeps customers busy with breathtaking sites, snorkeling and whale watching for more than seven hours

Two million years ago, molten lava spewed from an underwater volcano, forming the magnificent Napali (the cliffs) range that stretches 22 miles along the northwest coast of Kauai, from Kee Beach to Polihale State Park.

Soaring more than 3,000 feet above the Pacific, Napali is an impregnable fortress adorned with graceful lava arches, cream-colored beaches, caves veiled with waterfalls and 10 gorgeous valleys, all uninhabited and accessible only by foot, boat or helicopter.

Tracy Vierra, general manager for HoloHolo Charters, estimates she has cruised Napali more than two dozen times, but its splendor never fails to amaze her.

"It takes your breath away every time you see it," she says. "Sometimes the water is golden green, sometimes cobalt blue, sometimes light blue. Sometimes it's flat with barely a ripple; other times, it heaves and churns like the ocean is breathing."

Even though they stand as still and impassive as a sentry, the cliffs, Vierra notes, have a life all their own.

"Their colors run from deep brown to rich red to vibrant green," she says. "On the Napali-Niihau Super Tour, our 65-foot power catamaran HoloHolo sails at least three-quarters of that awesome coast. In ideal weather conditions, the captain takes her right up to the cliffs so you can see all their incredible colors and textures. Nature's presence there is so dramatic, you feel very, very small."

After spending an hour or so at Napali, HoloHolo heads southwest, crossing the Kaulakahi Channel at a speedy 30 mph to privately owned Niihau, 17 miles away. Be aware: The channel crossing can be rough, especially during the winter months, but HoloHolo was custom-designed to handle it.

Says Vierra, "At times it's like riding a bull; you hang on tight, scream, yell, laugh uncontrollably and just have a blast! HoloHolo is long, wide and stable, which gives you a safe, fun ride.

Even people who aren't accustomed to sailing and being on the ocean love it!"

HoloHolo's amenities add to the pleasure of the Napali-Niihau trip.

It is equipped with three entry and exit points for snorkelers, a freshwater shower, a shaded cabin with a large bar, and two mesh netting systems on the bow for sunbathing and sightseeing.

Although it is certified to carry 65 passengers, groups are kept to no more than 49, meaning there's more room to roam.

On the channel crossing, keep your eyes peeled for green sea turtles, sharks, spinner and bottlenose dolphins, and several species of whales, which this time of year include the humpback, Hawaii's state mammal. Come April, the humpbacks and their newborn babies will start making the 3,000-mile journey north to Alaska waters, where they live during the warmer months.

KNOWN FOR THEIR clarity and abundant marine life, the snorkeling sites off Niihau rank among Hawaii's best. When HoloHolo moors there, a crew member rides the anchor about 30 feet down to the bottom and manually sets it to ensure the coral reef isn't broken.

"We take our responsibility to care for the ocean environment very seriously," Vierra says. "That's also why we don't allow fish feeding on any of our tours. Doing that tends to attract aggressive species like the durgeon and blue-striped snapper, which eat the eggs of other reef fish and drive most of them out."

Snorkel sites during the Napali-Niihau Super Tour vary, depending on weather. One popular spot is Lehua, a partially submerged crescent-shaped volcanic crater that lies about 300 yards off Niihau's west coast. Here, on any given day, you're likely to see manta rays, sergeant majors, all kinds of wrasse, Moorish idols, parrotfish, eels, angelfish, butterfly fish, ulua (crevalle) and Hawaiian monk seals, one of which has been affectionately nicknamed Sammy.

"We see him just about every time we're at Lehua," Vierra says. "When our guests are in the water, he often swims by to check out everyone. He's curious and friendly -- quite a character!"

NIIHAU IS AS alluring as the creatures that inhabit its waters. In 1864, Eliza McHutcheson Sinclair, the wealthy widow of a New Zealand rancher, plunked down $10,000 in gold to purchase the island from King Kamehameha V. Measuring just 70 square miles -- less than one-fourth the size of New York City -- it is now owned by Bruce and Keith Robinson (descendants of Sinclair) and is designated part of Kauai County.

Little has changed on Niihau in 140 years. It has no electricity (generators provide power), no land lines (although some residents do have cell phones), no paved roads and just one small settlement, Puuwai, that is home to about 200 native Hawaiians whose primary language is Hawaiian. They survive largely by fishing, hunting and subsistence farming; the land, which sips only between 12 and 30 inches of rain per year, is too arid to support large-scale agriculture.

Niihau is best known for the exquisite necklaces, bracelets and earrings residents make from delicate rare shells gathered from its beaches. In Hawaii, Niihau shell jewelry is prized as much as precious gems and costs nearly as much.

The Robinson brothers fiercely protect the privacy of Niihau's residents and rarely allow outsiders access to the island. In fact, going on the Napali-Niihau Super Tour is the closest most people will ever get to it; thus comes its moniker, the Forbidden Island.

"Some of our guests have heard stories and read books about Niihau, so they want to see what it's like, if only from offshore," Vierra says. "Others don't know anything about it, but when we tell them it has been dubbed the Forbidden Island and share a little about its history, they're so intrigued they usually book the tour."

Be aware, though: Once you board HoloHolo for the Napali-Niihau Super Tour, you won't touch land again for seven hours. "It's for folks who like to step out of their comfort zone," Vierra says. "It's exciting, adventurous, scenic and, most of all, lots of fun!"

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IF YOU GO ... What: Napali-Niihau Super Tour Meet at: 6 a.m. at HoloHolo Charters' office in the Port Allen Marina Center, Eleele, Kauai Offered: Daily Cost: $175 for adults and $135 for ages 6 through 12, including continental breakfast; buffet lunch of deli meats, cheeses, breads, veggies, salads and fruit; soft drinks, beer and wine; and use of snorkel equipment. Kamaaina pay $140 for adults and $100 for kids. Call: 808-335-0815 or toll-free 800-848-6130 E-mail: reservations@holoholocharters.com Web site: www.holoholocharters.com Notes: This tour is not recommended for pregnant women and those who have back problems or who have recently undergone surgery. Guests must go barefoot; only orthopedic shoes are allowed on board. Dress to get wet and bring a light jacket or windbreaker, swimsuit and change of clothes. Those prone to motion sickness should take appropriate medication prior to boarding. Call for more information about HoloHolo's two other tours, the Napali Sail and the Napali/Sunset Tour.