Life in the sky is awe-inspiring

Gornergrat in the Alps provides one of the most stunning mountain views in the world

What would an Academy of Seasoned Travelers select as the world's most spectacular mountain view? Envelope, please!

My winner is the Gornergrat, high in the Alps above Zermatt, where you can see 29 of the 34 highest Swiss mountains rising more than 12,000 feet. There is no other public observation platform in Europe, or perhaps the world, that reveals so many tall peaks.

If you go ... Here are a few places to stay while in Gornergrat. Use the 011-41 prefix when calling from the United States: Hotels » Mont-Cervin Palace: Bahnhofstrasse 31, 3920 Zermatt. Five-star establishment. Call 27-966-8888; fax 27-966-8899. » Grand Hotel Zermatterhof: Bahnhofstrasse 55, 3920 Zermatt. Five-star establishment. Call 27-966-6600; fax 27-966-6699. » Hotel Alex: Bodmenstrasse 12, 3920 Zermatt. Four-star property. Call 27-966-7070; fax 27-966-7090. » Schlosshotel Alex Tenne: Bahnhofplatz, 3920 Zermatt. This four-star property is my favorite. Call 27-967-1801; fax 27-966-4405. » Hotel Alpenhof: Matterstrasse 43, 3920 Zermatt. Four-star property. Call 27-966-5555; fax 27-966-5556. on the net ... » www.zermatt.ch » www.gornergrat.ch/en » www.zermatt-bergbahnen.ch » www.ggb.ch » www.zermatt.ch/alpincenter

Adding to the visual punch of this panorama is a classic view of the world-famous Matterhorn, dramatically rising 14,070 feet in its distinctive vertical thrust. There are also incredible views of Monte Rosa, the highest mountain in Switzerland, at 15,203 feet, so massive that it dominates the skyline. The scenic, rack railroad ride from the village of Zermatt up the Gornergrat ends at the highest outdoor train station in Europe (10,270 feet). And Zermatt's many charms adds immensely to the experience.

So remote that you can't drive or fly there, the Alpine resort village of Zermatt is so sheltered from the outside world by mountains that it appears to be like a mythical Shangri-La. The only way to get to this automobile-free town is by narrow-gauge train along steep cliffs and through a deep valley, passing lovely waterfalls, alpine meadows, a raging river and grazing cows.

Zermatt is one of Switzerland's best destinations, with beautiful walking paths reaching out in every direction. This famous resort offers old-fashioned charm along with modern comforts: horse buggies or electric carts, mountain walks or relaxing cafes, quaint chalets or five-star hotels. With no cars allowed, you can really relax and enjoy the peace and quiet, amidst the grand Alpine setting.

You could enjoy a visit here in the easiest possible way by staying in the village and observing the mountains from the main shopping lane. Better still, spend some time in the mountains walking, skiing, riding steep railroads and swinging from cable cars. There are 140 miles of ski runs and the largest summer ski slopes in Europe.

You could even fly on a tandem paraglide ride with an expert. But if you want to take full advantage of this rare opportunity to thoroughly experience the Alps, you've got to hike. Bottom line: Wear comfortable shoes.

FIRST, YOU WANT to get settled into a hotel. Upon arriving at the end of the train line in Zermatt, the first challenge is to get to your hotel with suitcase in tow. You might be able to walk there, pulling your bag along the paved lane, or you might need some help if it is on the other end of the mile-long village.

There will be baggage porters with little electric taxi scooters in front of the station who can drive you, or your hotel might provide a pickup service, so check in advance. Some of the five-star properties will send a horse carriage for you. I usually stay at the Alex Schlosshotel Tenne, a block and a minute's walk from the station.

Gornergrat has 242 miles of hiking trails, all of which are worthwhile. Gornergrat Mountain offers some of the best views and hikes in the Zermatt region, with nature walks ranging from the gentlest stroll to vigorous hikes. There are a number of Alpine lakes accessible through easy trails that require no strain at all. The rewards are many: beautiful views, uncrowded trails, fresh mountain air, downhill paths, wildflowers in bloom and scenic rest spots.

Next to the train station is the Gornergrat mountain railroad, with a narrow-gauge track that winds up the mountain past stunning views of the steep, pyramid-shaped peak of the Matterhorn, Zermatt's signature sight.

It is possible to disembark halfway up the mountain to ski down, in winter, or hike down during the warmer half of the year when there is no snow, but it is better to save the hiking for the return train trip, after you have seen the view from the top.

To see the maximum number of the peaks, you have to walk further uphill after leaving the train, so don't settle for the views at the first platform or from the restaurant terrace. Yes, it is tempting to just sit back with a beer (that can come later), but you are so close to perfection and it only takes a small effort to walk a few minutes up that snowy hill. The path is easy, if a bit slippery, and not so steep that you're going to fall off a cliff, even though it is the side of a glacier.

At the upper observation platform, you will be amply rewarded with a 360-degree panorama of peaks and glaciers. Being enveloped in this way, on all sides by jagged mountains, is a jaw-dropping experience. Monte Rosa is especially impressive as the closest and highest peak, straddled by two glaciers, the Gorner and the Grenz, each 7 miles long.

Getting down from this observation platform is an easy downhill walk that quickly brings you to the self-service restaurant where you can warm up and have a good meal for a decent price, or just sip some hot chocolate or a cold beer. Light meals of soup, salad, chips or sandwiches are also offered, or go for the ice cream if you're not frostbitten yet. The Swiss have civilized their major mountain peaks with these amazing restaurant complexes that make you feel right at home in the sky. There is even a small hotel, the Gornergrat Kulm, where you could spend the night in comfort.

It is usually freezing at this lofty height during the summer, but pleasant, especially on a clear, sunny day. With the sun out and no wind, a light jacket and sweater are enough to keep you warm.

After soaking up the mountain scenery, head back to the train station for the return trip. These trains have been in operation since 1898, but the current equipment is only about 10 years old and maintained like new.

DESCENT: Instead of riding the train back to the bottom, you can make a few stops along the way at different restaurant terraces for additional views. You could also consider walking down.

There is a rich variety of routes to pick from, depending on your ability and time available. You could even walk the entire distance from the top in a four-hour stroll back to Zermatt, or even better, ride the train partway down and get off at one of the stations to walk from there.

This is hiker's paradise, and no matter which path you take, it will be a splendid walk across a high-level plateau covered with alpine meadows, through rich forests and along small streams, with excellent views and perhaps sightings of the small native antelope, the chamois, and other wildlife.

Coming down from the peak of Gornergrat by train, there are three stations where you can get off and begin walking: Rotenboden (9,250 feet), Riffelberg (8,500 feet) and Riffelalp (7,300 feet), with Zermatt at 5,300 feet.

The walk from Gornergrat peak to Rotenboden takes just 30 minutes, with another half-hour to Riffelberg, always with sweeping views of majestic mountains and glaciers in the distance. The terrain is fairly open grassland, a plateau and small valley streams. If there is still snow on the ground, usually late October through April, this walk is not advised, for it is slippery and the trail can disappear. There is an excellent restaurant at Riffelberg with a panorama terrace and a perfect view of the Matterhorn, so take a break and enjoy the sights here, even if you are simply riding down by train. Thirty more minutes of easy walking will bring you to Riffelalp, which has a small hotel open during the warmer half of the year.

The lower part of the mountain, from Riffelalp to Zermatt, is an easy two-hour stroll. At the Riffelalp station you can choose between two different trails for hiking down: one on the east, the other on the west. There is a restaurant at Riffelalp with a scenic outdoor terrace where you might spend some time for refreshments while deciding which way to go.

If you choose the two-hour route down the easier west side from Riffelalp, much of the walk will have direct views of the Matterhorn, one of the most inspiring natural features in the world.

The path is fairly steep but manageable as it zigzags downward, passing a small restaurant at Ritti halfway along. Finally, you get to a paved path with signposts and think you have arrived, but look at the sign to see you have another 30 minutes to go, mostly across level pastures and through housing on the edge of town.

The east side takes you into a different valley, heading toward Findelbach and then continuing down to Zermatt. This route is longer, taking nearly three hours.

An extended variation of this route adds several more hours to the walk by bringing you further into the mountain valley to a small lake at Grunsee, back out to Findelbach and down to Zermatt.

You will see other alternative walks on the detailed maps that you should pick up and study before you begin. The maps are available for free in the Zermatt Tourist Information office at the train station.

Many Swiss prefer to hike uphill, which is better exercise and provides prettier views looking up at the mountaintops, but it is so much easier to go with the flow of gravity, using muscles that have long been dormant. If you can find the right rhythm, the walking feels effortless. You can almost float down when moving along at the right speed with your body leaning back into the hillside while you are propelled downward. It is a dirt path most of the way, with some loose footing that only adds another dimension to the fun.

One important safety tip: Don't take shortcuts just to gain a minute at the switchback bend in the trail by heading straight down. That's when it is easiest to slip and twist your knee or ankle. Even if that shortcut is clearly worn in and visible in the dirt, don't be tempted. A walking stick can also make life easier to help slow you down and stabilize your footing.

In future articles we shall explore more of the spectacular Zermatt region, but for now we'll kick back with thoughts of a drink in hand by the fireplace in a comfy hotel.

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