Adventure awaits in quaint Queenstown

Queenstown, the vacation capital of New Zealand, sits in splendid isolation on the shores of Lake Wakatipu with rugged mountains and nature's beauty all around. While most famous for outdoor activities, Queenstown is also a fine town for strolling, full of attractive shops and restaurants in a well-planned, compact area just five blocks square.

On one hand, it is wonderful to simply relax in town and enjoy a short boat ride, which is all that many visitors do. Or, you could take advantage of being in adventure central.

Some of the best excursions out of town to consider are:

» Cruising on scenic Milford Sound
» Jeep-riding into the backcountry
» Jet-boating on the Shotover River
» Taking a cable car up Bob's Peak
» Touring local vineyards
» Flying across the Southern Alps

With more time and gumption, add horseback riding, whitewater rafting, paragliding, parasailing, canyoning, mountain biking, skydiving, motorcycling, fishing, hiking, fly-by-wire and 300 other thrills.

Day One

Queenstown is small enough to possess the atmosphere of a quaint village, yet large enough to keep you busy for three days. Your first instinct will be to explore the town center on foot. There are just five main streets, including the pedestrian Queenstown Mall in the center, so finding your way around is easy.

There are many helpful tourist information offices offering the full range of excursions, so it's not necessary to make tour reservations before arriving. These private travel agencies are clustered primarily along Shotover and Camp streets, each with similar prices and selection.

Next, stroll along the half-mile waterfront promenade, which takes full advantage of Queenstown's idyllic setting on the shore of New Zealand's third-largest lake. This level path begins in a green park, continues as a wooden boardwalk with restaurants and a small marina along the way to a beach, then ends up at the Botanic Garden. The garden's landscaped paths, towering trees and lake vistas make for a delightful 30-minute stroll, the easiest nature hike possible in this outdoor capital. Sunset is a nice time to repeat the waterfront stroll.

For a brunch or luncheon treat, try the top-rated Bathhouse Restaurant on the beach near the Botanic Garden. Or opt for one of many other eateries noted during your reconnaissance walk (see listings for top choices). Fortunately, the weakened United States dollar goes a long way here. New Zealand is one of only a few developed countries where the exchange rate is favorable (75 U.S. cents equals one N.Z. dollar), so indulge in memorable feasts while you can.

Shotover Jet ride: One of the most thrilling adrenaline shots you will ever have is screaming through a river canyon at 60 mph, inches from jagged stone cliffs, with icy mist pelting your face, while hanging on for dear life in a red jet-boat. Sounds like fun, right?

Shotover Jet belongs on top of your list this first afternoon. This is Queenstown's most popular ride and New Zealand's No. 1 tourist attraction. Twin V6 engines put out 800 horsepower, spitting 500 gallons of water every second to propel you on a 20-minute journey through a dramatic canyon, only 30 feet wide at its narrowest, with vertical rock cliffs towering 300 feet.

Just when you think it's over, the pilot does a wild 360-degree spin and you blast back again, kissing the cliffs en route back to the dock. You don't even have to be physically fit to go on the ride, so everyone can share the experience.

Bungy: Wild and crazy spirits can continue down the road to the Kawarau Bridge Bungy Jump, where this thrilling jumping sport was invented in 1986 by A. J. Hackett. He now operates five different bungy operations in the area. Here, you'll dive off a bridge and plunge 150 feet down to the river, then bounce for a while on the end of a tether attached to your ankles. There's been no fatalities here in the 20 years Hackett has run the business. If you're not comfortable jumping, just sit and watch the spectacle from a nearby wine bar.

Arrowtown: This quaint, old-fashioned gold-mining town is just 12 miles from Queenstown. Both Arrowtown and Queenstown were created as tent cities for miners after the 1862 discovery of gold in the area. The rush was over within a few decades but Arrowtown remained with its old wooden buildings intact. Today, it is a living exhibit revived by the tourist trade. A small museum re-creates life in the mines a century ago, with three-dimensional displays including period tools, furnishings and artifacts.

On the short drive back to Queenstown, your driver might take you to one of many farmer's market stands along the way. New Zealand is a Garden of Eden when it comes to produce, including growing some fruit hybrids only found here. Farming is so highly developed that the country is self-sufficient in major foods. It's a treat to be able to purchase items directly at fields along this drive.

Cable car: Riding up Bob's Peak makes a great, late afternoon activity. The mountain offers a grand vista of the town, lake and the Remarkable Mountains. The Skyline Gondola station on Brecon Street, open from 9 a.m. to midnight daily, is easily accessible via a 10-minute walk from downtown. The mountain-top facilities include a panoramic viewing platform, gift shop, restaurant and the Kiwi Haka supper club that stages a traditional Maori hangi music and dance performance.

Luge ride: On the hillside behind the mountain, you can roll down the track on a little gravity-powered cart while enjoying the view. There are also six hiking trails into the forest, with walk times ranging from 20 minutes to six hours. It's definitely worth a short walk uphill to see the jump-off point for hang gliding and parasailing, where you can get the best mountaintop view and arrange tandem flights with an experienced pilot.

Back in town for the evening, enjoy the sunset from the lakeshore and more shopping because shops are open late. This is a good town to buy sporting goods including hiking gear, clothing, backpacks, shoes and boots. Complete the day with a great dinner.

Day Two

Milford Sound and Fjordland: One of the best visitor experiences is the trip to Milford Sound, a deep fjord on the west coast of the South Island that offers some of the country's most dramatic scenery. It's best to go on an organized bus tour rather than spend the six-hour round-trip behind the wheel of a rental car. The scenery along the way is pleasant -- typical green, rolling hills scattered with sheep -- passing through the villages of Kingston and Mossburn, and a large lake, Te Anau.

Most bus tours take a break midway in the journey at the town of Te Anau, where you'll find boutiques and funky cafés where you can grab a coffee and muffin before continuing to the lake shore a few blocks away. If driving on your own, you might want to spend the night in Te Anau and continue to Milford Sound in the morning, beating the crowds that generally arrive after noon.

For most, bus tour stops give a satisfying glimpse into this vast, scenic landscape. But a more adventurous way to make this 35-mile journey is by walking the famous Milford Track, a three-day hike through virgin forest, but this requires making reservations many months in advance and paying a hefty fee. Serious hikers might consider a number of other tramps through the forests arranged by one of the professional outfits in Queenstown. These guided hikes can go for a few days or weeks through the rugged mountains of Fjordland National Park.

Leaving Te Anau via tour bus, you'll pass Eglinton Valley, Mirror Lakes, The Chasm waterfall, and Homer Tunnel, which runs through high Alpine peaks to bring you to island's west side and Milford Sound. Once there, your first glimpse of New Zealand's landmark Mitre Peak makes the entire journey worthwhile. The dramatic vertical mountain rises a mile straight out of the ocean. A great view of it is afforded from the dock before beginning your boat ride to get a closer look, so take in this stunning vista and take a snapshot before boarding.

This cruise, one of New Zealand's most popular, has been getting busier every year, with its passenger numbers doubling in the last decade, from 250,000 to 500,000. That number is expected to grow another 30 percent in the next few years. Nearly all these people are here just a few hours before returning to Queenstown, for there is only one small hotel at Milford Sound.

Stand on the open deck to get an unobstructed view of Mitre Peak in its full glory. You might want to remain on deck throughout this journey, which includes a close-up look at Bowen and Stirling waterfalls, and perhaps a few seals basking on the rocks. A comfortable indoor lounge is a good place to rest, enjoy a hot buffet lunch, or just pick up a sandwich at the snack bar. The two-hour cruise ventures the 10-mile length of this narrow fjord, framed by the world's steepest sea cliffs.

A return trip option is to fly to Queenstown in a small plane, weather permitting, rather than spend another three hours on a bus. Hourlong flights can be arranged through the bus-tour operators, and this option offers a spectacular look at the Southern Alps. The one-way flight, however, can cost up to $300.

Day Three

Jeep trip: Another great Queenstown activity is to take a Jeep ride into the beautiful, rugged countryside and its deep valleys surrounded by steep, glacier-capped mountains. A four-hour, round-trip excursion is a very civilized way to enjoy the wilderness as you ride in comfort, listening to a driver-guide, while stopping to shoot photos of scenes from the movie, have tea and cookies by a river deep in the valley, then return to the luxury of your hotel. Several companies offer these excursions to backcountry destinations. I had good luck with the Nomad Safaris trip to Glenorchy. Jeep trips are now often labeled "Lord of the Rings" tours because they visit sites where the film trilogy was made.

These mountains are as breathtaking as the Swiss Alps, but younger and therefore sharper, and in their own way, more dramatic.

Nearly two-thirds of the South Island is mountainous, resulting from the slow collision of tectonic plates that has pushed slabs of granite into geologically recent ranges that are steep and jagged, and not yet worn from erosion. They are growing a half-inch per year as the Australian plate crunches its way over the Pacific plate.

Wine tasting: New Zealand wines have achieved an international reputation for high quality, especially the Pinot Noir grown in this Central Otago region. Excursions to local wineries provide a chance to see the vineyards, processing operation, cellars, and of course, to visit the tasting room for samples and a talk about wine production. Another innovative and much easier way to learn about local wines is by visiting Central Otago Wine Experience on Beach Street, a shop offering 105 different varieties for sale. With small amounts dispensed at the push of a button by a high-tech serving system, you can swirl your way around the world while focusing on the excellent vintages of New Zealand.

Lake Cruise: The grand finale of your stay could be a lake cruise on the TSS Earnslaw, a steam-powered paddleboat launched in 1912 and still in daily service. On board you'll find a full-service bar and snack buffet that could provide a light dinner while you enjoy the lovely views while sitting on deck or in the elegant salons looking through large windows at the lake and mountains beyond.

You could also ride around Lake Wakatipu on a 90-minute round trip or get off at the far end to enjoy a buffet dinner at Walter Peak High Country Farm, followed by an entertaining sheep demonstration.

The demo is a must when you consider that most of the nation's useable land is devoted to these furry creatures that outnumber people 20-to-1. A highly-trained dog rounds up his flock, responding to the whistle commands of the farmer in a stunning display of canine intelligence.

Eye-dogs don't bark at the sheep to get them moving -- they just stare and run around to steer them in the right direction.

After experiencing this area's many charms, you will appreciate how such a small town earned its name -- it truly is fit for a queen.

If you go...

Queenstown is the tourism center of the South Island, so an excellent range of hotels is available, from five-star deluxe to backpacker hostels. For best results, choose one of the half-dozen major properties in the town center listed here. You could save a little money by staying on the edge of town, but this entails walking 10 to 15 minutes up and down hill, chewing up an hour if you make a couple of round-trips each day. If your hotel is farther from town, a shuttle bus offering $2 rides is available, but the schedule is limited.

Restaurants

» Bath House Cafe & Restaurant: 28 Marine Parade. Call 64-3-442-5625; e-mail enquires@bathhouse.co.nz.
» Boardwalk: Steamer Wharf Village. Call 64-3-442-5630; fax 64-3-442-9042; e-mail boardwalk@xtra.co.nz.
» Beefeater Steakhouse: 40 Shotover St. Call 64-3-442-9149.
» Dux De Lux: 14-16 Church St. Call 64-3-442-9688; fax 64-3-442-9688; e-mail caleb.thedux@xtra.co.nz.
» Fishbone Bar & Grill: 7 Beach St. Call 64-3-442-6768; e-mail fishbone@es.co.nz
» Harvest Organic Restaurant: 9 Beach St. Call 64-27-426-5563.
» Pig and Whistle: 19 Camp St. Call 64-3-442-9055; fax 64-3-442-6824; e-mail pigandwhistle@xtra.co.nz
» Speight Ale House: Corner of Stanley and Ballarat streets. Call 64-3-441-3065; fax 64-3-441-3066; e-mail qtownalehouse@xtra.co.nz
» Tatler: 5 The Mall. Call 64-3-442-8372; fax 64-3-442-6820; e-mail tatler@queenstown.co.nz.

Hotels

» Eichardt's Hotel: At Marine Parade. Call 64-3-441-0450; fax 64-3-441-0440; e-mail victoria@eichardtshotel.co.nz.
» Novotel Gardens: Corner of Earl Street and Marine Parade. Call 64-3-442-7750; fax 64-3-442 -7578; e-mail H5308-RE01@accor-hotels.com.
» Parkroyal: On Beach Street. Call 64-3-442-7800.
» Crowne Plaza: On Beach Street. Call 64-3-442-7800; fax 64- 3-442-8895; e-mail hotel@queenstown.parkroyal.co.nz.
» Outrigger at the Beacon: At 33 Lake Esplanade. Call 64-3-441-0890; fax 64-3-409-0899; e-mail ken.harris@outriggernewzealand.com.
» Rydges Lakeland: At 38-54 Lake Esplanade. Call 64-3-442-7600; fax 64-3-442-9653; e-mail reservations_queenstown@rydges.com.
» Sofitel Queenstown: At 8 Duke St. On the edge of town, 10-minute walk from the center. Call 64-3-450-0045; e-mail reservations@sofitelzqn.co.nz.

» Copthorne: At the corner of Adelaide Street and Frankton Road. Call 64-3-442-8123; fax 64-3-442-7472; e-mail copthorne.lakefront@mckhotels.co.nz.

On the Internet

» www.justqueenstown.co.nz
» www.queenstownnz.co.nz
» www.nzhike.com
» www.itag.co.nz
» www.nomadsafaris.co.nz
» www.tourism.net.nz