The line is long ...but the burritos are huge
I don't visit SoCal very often. The driving is terrifying. So when I watched Wahoo's Fish Taco coming up at the corner of Ward Avenue and Auahi Street, I assumed it was a local creation, not a creation of Chinese brothers from California via Brazil. After all, what could be a more natural fit for Hawaii? In fact, my sweetie and I had one of those "duh" moments, as in why didn't we think of that, after having long lamented the lack of a good fresh-fish taco joint in town. Double duh.
Not that I want to be in the restaurant biz, but you've got to admit, the fresh Mex enterprise concocted 18 years ago by brothers Ed and Mingo Lee, and Wing Lam, still seems fresh and relevant today now that more people are interested in reducing their red-meat intake. Credit members of the Pietsch family -- Michael, Noel and Heather -- for bringing it in.
Lines for lunch formed from Day 1 and I was warned, "Good luck trying to get in," before heading out there. Once in, I found it had something in common with Disneyland, another SoCal fixture. The line goes out the door, and just when you get inside, a sign says something like "10 minute wait from this point." I forget. I was too busy studying the menu so I wouldn't be all lolo and flustered at the counter, like a lot of people who only think of reading the menu when they're facing the cashier.
The line was a little ridiculous to me. It seems Wahoo's could come up with a better solution after 18 years than to have two or three people taking orders and the bulk of servers running all around the restaurant looking for numbers on the tables to deliver the orders.
It's fast fare, but not that fast and not McDonald's efficient. Ultimately, it's diners who are inconvenienced. Then again, even after introducing the concept to Colorado and Texas, the company has never dealt with a rabid Hawaii crowd that turns out in full force whenever anything new arrives.
The system works when it's slow, and I guess it's less confusing for the kitchen than dealing with the multiple waiters required for table service. If you go, it's saner at dinner time, though the menu's the same day and night.
CINDY-ELLEN RUSSELL / CRUSSELL@STARBULLETIN.COM
Wahoo's Fish Taco co-owner Noel Pietsch, left, general manager Heather Avery and co-owner Stephanie Pietsch hold plates filled with fish tacos, baja rolls, combo burrito (the big one in the center) and Wahoo's salad. The Pietschs' brother, Michael, is also an owner.
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THE RESTAURANT is casual through and through, so feel free to bring the kids. There's even a keiki menu of mini cheese quesadillas ($4.50), cheese nachos ($3.50) and rice and bean tacos and enchiladas ($4.50 or $5.25 with shrimp or steak).
Even after studying the menu you can still be lolo when ordering because the cashiers seem to have a dozen questions regarding various sauces and toppings. The combinations do seem endless, given a choice of eight styles of dishes to start, from tacos, to enchiladas, a number of burritos, salads and rice or bean bowls. If you're hungry, it's better to go with the burritos than the two small-ish soft corn tortilla tacos that come on one order.
Once you're happy with the food form, you get to choose one of 10 fillings. For me it doesn't get better than the wet burrito with shrimp ($8.50) sautéed in soy sauce, garlic, herbs and Cajun spices. The burrito is smothered with a spicy fat-free roasted pepper-cilantro sauce. If you can't take the heat, opt for the mild red sauce.
Other filling choices include an island-style version of carne asada, lean steak marinated in soy sauce, garlic and herbs before being flame-broiled, and blackened or flame-broiled fish that isn't as flavorful as that of Maui Tacos, a company with local origins that has since gone national.
The steak is a great topper for Wahoo's salad ($8.50, plus $2 with addition of steak, shrimp or sautéed veggies) of lettuce, red cabbage, guacamole and crisp tortilla strips.
If you're still holding onto that New Year resolution of trying to eat more vegetarian dishes, you won't miss meat at all with the jumbo Outer Reef Burrito ($6.99) paired with spicy blackened mushrooms. The mushrooms have the rather unnatural texture of mini sausages. The burrito is also stuffed with rice, shredded Jack and Cheddar cheeses, guacamole, sour cream, lettuce and black or white beans.
Taco joints generally aren't big on desserts. The only item listed on the menu is "Aunty Lauren's homemade desserts." Most people wouldn't make a second trip to the register to ask. Instead, a stack of cellophane-wrapped chocolate-chip cookies at the register are impossible to resist after standing in line.