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Hawaii’s Back Yard
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi
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Kona’s historical offerings in easy reach
"This district is famous for oranges, coffee, pineapples and silence. ... The scarcely audible whisper of soft airs through the trees morning and evening, raindrops falling gently and the murmur of drowsy surges far below, alone break the stillness. No ripple ever disturbs the expanse of ocean which gleams through the still, thick trees. ...
If you go ...
What: Historic Kailua Village Walking Tour
Meet: Beneath the banyan tree on the pier side of King Kamehameha's Kona Beach Hotel, Kailua-Kona, Big Island
Offered: By appointment at least 24 hours in advance
Cost: $20 per person (minimum of three people required), free for children under 10. Price includes the Kona Historical Society's 24-page booklet, Historic Kailua Village Map, which contains archival photographs, maps and information about 11 historic areas in town. The $4.95 map can be purchased at Hulihee Palace, Borders or KHS's office in Kealakekua, and used on a self-guided tour. Call for group rates.
Call: 808-323-3222
E-mail: khs@kona.net
Web site: www.konahistorical.org
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"Nothing surely can ever happen here: it is so ... quiet. No heat, cold or wind, nothing emphasized or italicized, it is truly ... a land where all things always seem the same and existence is a languid swoon." Nineteenth- century British travel writer Isabella Bird no doubt would be surprised to stroll through Kona today; gone is the peaceful, sleepy area that she described in her best-selling book, "Six Months in the Sandwich Islands."
Kona stretches over 40 miles, from the Big Island's sun-splashed western coast to the lush forests on the slopes of Mount Hualalai, a dormant 8,271-foot volcano. In the 132 years since Bird visited the region, it has become the hub of west side commerce.
More than a fourth of the Big Island's population lives in the region, which hosts annual events such as the Ford Ironman Triathlon World Championship, Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament and the Kona Coffee Cultural Festival.
Eighty-four percent of the Big Island's 1.2 million visitors last year spent time in Kona. Judging from the crowds and steady stream of cars in its main town, Kailua-Kona, life here is anything but a languid swoon.
In fact, Kona is heir to a rich history written by a colorful cast of characters, including kings and clergymen. The Kona Historical Society was founded in 1976 to "collect, preserve and disseminate the history of post-contact Kona."
KHS leaders know most people don't vacation in Kona because of its history. Says Educational Program and Development Coordinator Ann Peterson, "We know they come for our sunny weather, our great water activities and the fabulous resorts that are located on the Kona-Kohala Coast ... but if we can, we hope to catch their attention and educate them about the important historical treasures that are easily accessible right in town."
To that end, KHS launched the 75-minute Historic Kailua Village Walking Tour in 1991. It provides a fascinating introduction to the picturesque seaport's past, with leisurely stops at Ahuena Heiau, Mokuaikaua Church and Hulihee Palace -- three significant sites that stand among the hotels, shops and restaurants along bustling Alii Drive, the main drag.
Donna Bento has led the tour for five years and never tires of telling the tales.
"When people are aware of and understand something, they are more apt to care about it," she says. "There has been concern about how we Hawaiians are going to preserve our culture and history. The answer is simple: through education, and that's the aim of this walking tour."
COURTESY OF THE HAWAII VISITORS AND
CONVENTION BUREAU / KIRK AEDER
This seawall is along the Kailua-Kona coast on the Big Island.
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THE EXCURSION begins beside a small bay adjacent to Kailua Pier called Kamakahonu, "the eye of the turtle," one of the most sacred sites in Kona.
"There was a lava formation shaped like a turtle in the bay, and you could see its eye; hence, the name Kamakahonu," Bento said. "The formation was covered when the pier was built in the early 1900s. Long ago, green sea turtles came here to lay their eggs on the beach."
Kamakahonu also was a retreat for King Kamehameha, who united the islands by 1810, retired to Kona in 1812 and ruled from here until his death on May 8, 1819. Historians believe that Ahuena Heiau, the temple standing on the shores of Kamakahonu, dates to the 15th century.
In the early 1800s, Kamehameha restored Ahuena and used it for religious purposes. A National Historic Landmark, it was re-created in 1978, scaled two-thirds its original size.
It was at Kamakahonu, within months of Kamehameha's death, that his son and heir Liholiho (King Kamehameha II) and favorite wife Queen Kaahumanu broke the ancient kapu (taboo) system by sharing a meal (men and women were not allowed to eat together).
"When that act didn't bring any consequences from the gods, the people's faith in the old religious order was forbidden," says Bento. "Word spread fast throughout the islands. Many heiau were destroyed, opening the way for Protestant missionaries who arrived in Kailua-Kona on April 4, 1820, less than a year after Kamehameha died."
In search of spiritual guidance, the Hawaiians embraced the Gospels.
The first Christian church in Hawaii was Kamehameha II's thatched residence. Here, thanks to the king, the Rev. Asa Thurston and his wife, Lucy, lived, worshipped with their converts and taught them the English language.
The missionaries' flock grew, so a larger structure was built around 1825, where Mokuaikaua Church stands today. It burned down in 1835.
Workers laid the cornerstones for the present sanctuary in January 1836, and it was dedicated in early 1837. Lava rocks from three nearby heiau were cemented with mortar made of sand, water, and burned and crushed coral to form Mokuaikaua's walls and foundation. Posts and beams were cut from sturdy ohia wood, and the pews, pulpit, railings and wall panels were crafted from koa. The name Mokuaikaua refers to the forested crown land above Kailua-Kona that yielded all the wood for the church.
"No nails were used," notes Bento. "That's a good thing because the salt air would have deteriorated them. Instead, the church is held together by wooden notches and pegs."
SOON AFTER THE church was built, Kuakini turned his attention to the construction of Hulihee Palace across the street. It was completed in 1838 and served as his principal residence until his death in 1844.
An editor of the Sandwich Island Gazette described Hulihee as "the most splendid building at the Sandwich Islands. ... (It) portrays an intimacy with good taste and a passion for modern improvements on the part of its proprietor."
The lovely seaside estate subsequently became a retreat for a host of alii, including King Kamehameha IV; his wife, Queen Emma; Princess Ruth Keelikolani; King Kalakaua; and his wife, Queen Kapiolani. It was placed on the National Register of Historic Sites in 1973.
Original furnishings add beauty and dignity to the rooms at Hulihee, including a handsome dining table commissioned by King Kalakaua. Measuring 70 inches in diameter, its top was fashioned from a single piece of fine koa.
Kamehameha's 22-foot spear, Queen Kapiolani's sandalwood wardrobe inlaid with ivory, and Princess Ruth's hatbox, crafted from the trunk of a coconut tree, are among the hundreds of other priceless treasures on view.
"Hulihee Palace, Mokuaikaua Church and Ahuena Heiau are important links to Hawaii's past," says Bento. "What's wonderful is they're not hidden in some far-off place, and they're not in such fragile condition that they're off limits to everyone but archaeologists. They're permanent landmarks in Kailua-Kona, open for all to see and appreciate."
On the Historic Kailua Village
Walking Tour
COURTESY OF THE HAWAII VISITORS AND
CONVENTION BUREAU / KIRK AEDER
Ahuena Heiau is in Kona on the Big Island. The temple dates to the 15th century. The current version, recreated in 1978, is two-thirds its original size.
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COURTESY OF THE HAWAII VISITORS AND
CONVENTION BUREAU / HTJ
Mokuaikaua Church is the oldest church in Hawaii state. It is a beautiful structure with exterior walls of lava rock and coral lime.
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COURTESY OF BOB ABRAHAM /
BIG ISLAND VISITORS BUREAU
Hulihee Palace was completed in 1838. The seaside estate of Hawaii's monarchs was placed on the National Register of Historic Sites in 1973.
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Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based free-lance writer and Society of American Travel Writers award winner.