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By The Glass
Kevin Toyama






JRE wines win R. Field
hands with rich taste

On our second trip to the Bay area this year, R. Field wine dudes (Marvin, Brian, Ryan and yours truly) met up with winemaker John R. Eppler of JRE wines.

We had unknowingly tasted a wine John made (Zoom Zinfandel) at the ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates & Producers) event back in January held at Fort Mason Center in San Francisco and were back to try his current offerings.

An appreciation of French wines prompted John to pursue a degree in viticulture and chemistry. His desire to make wine drew him from his home in Texas to California. In Napa Valley, he tried his hand at making Zinfandel in '86 and has been making wine ever since.

John's approach to winemaking is all about "where the grapes come from, how they are grown and cultivated."

The ripeness of the grapes is critical; under-ripe grapes have green, herbaceous aromas and flavors and if they are overripe, the aromas and flavors can be pruny and cooked.

"My first job is to test and taste the grapes during the final phase of ripening to catch them when they have the right balance of flavors," he says. "That's when they taste good and make the best and most flavorful wines."

We found his wines to be deeply colored with rich flavors that were balanced.

John creates everyday wines for all from his California collection -- the JRE California Zinfandel 2003 ($10.89) is a blending of grapes from Lodi, Mendocino, Contra Costa & Sonoma Counties. It is a great value with flavors of raspberry, red cherry, cocoa, and spices with a juicy finish.

The JRE California Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($11.49), layered with supple black cherry, currants and spice, with hints of mint, blackberry and vanilla, is an exceptional value as well.

His premium selections are from single vineyards -- the 2003 Todd Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon ($24.89) from Alexander Valley is laced with blackberries, currants, mocha, violets, dark licorice and cedar flavors.

A real mouthful, the Ghidossi Vineyard Petite Sirah 2003 ($24.89) from Contra Costa County resounds with a deeper color, blueberry, violet, spicy fruits, dried herbs, smoke and minerals.


Kevin Toyama is manager of the Beretania R. Field Wine Co.
and an advanced certificate holder from the Court of Master Sommeliers.


This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to features@starbulletin.com



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