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FL MORRIS / FMORRIS@STARBULLETIN.COM Racks of pork ribs are shiny with sauce as they heat over the kiawe fire at Sunset Grill.

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Ribs victory keeps
the grill smoking

The big win was a mixed blessing for Sunset Grill chef Robert Miller.

Sure, taking first place in the rib competition at the Brews, Blues and BBQs street fair last month was good for the ego, but sheesh, it's been a lot of work.

Pre-contest, the restaurant would go through one or two cases of pork ribs a week. "Now we're doing two cases a day," he says. "At least."

One weekend right after the contest, he came close to running out. "I had to go to Sam's Club to buy more ribs."

No choice, Miller says. "You can't run out of ribs. You know what I mean?"

Sunset Grill bested five other competitors in a close tally by the event's judges, but in the People's Choice competition, Miller's recipe was the clear favorite with 85 percent of the vote.

Miller speaks of the win with some pride, but also resignation. He didn't enter to win, he says, but to participate in the fund-raiser for the Hawaii Children's Cancer Foundation.

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FL MORRIS / FMORRIS@STARBULLETIN.COM Chef Robert Miller presents the ribs, which will be served with corn, mashed potatoes and coleslaw.

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He wasn't even able to attend the cook-off, but rather, spent two days pre-cooking and sent a team to actually work the street fair. Word of the win came in the middle of Saturday dinner service at the restaurant.

He remembers immediate elation, but "of course, I'm getting punished now."

Miller hails from Connecticut, not exactly American rib country, but after moving to Hawaii he spent two years at Davy Jones House of Ribs (this was after 10 years at the Parc Hotel).

He applied some Davy Jones techniques to the rib recipe in place at Sunset Grill when he started there in June. He also added a dry rub and tweaked the sauce.

The recipe at right is close to Sunset Grill's current formula. Miller says a few secrets have been held back. Plus, the restaurant has a kiawe grill in the kitchen that delivers perfect heat all the time, so you might not be able to re-create that exact effect at home.

Note that if you make these ribs it's best to start the day before you plan to eat them. Miller says it's important to cook the ribs, then chill well before finishing them on the grill. Otherwise, they'll fall apart.

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Sunset Grill Ribs

3 racks pork ribs (about 6 pounds)
» Dry Rub:
2 tablespoons EACH garlic powder, salt and pepper
» Barbecue Sauce:
3/4 cup ketchup
3/4 cup canned tomato purée
1/2 tablespoon EACH garlic powder, instant coffee powder, chili pepper sauce and Worcestershire sauce
1/2 teaspoon chili powder, crushed chili pepper, dry mustard, brown sugar and molasses

Preheat oven to 325 to 350 degrees. Place ribs in shallow baking pan.

Combine rub ingredients and sprinkle over ribs. Cover ribs with water and cover pan tightly with foil. Bake 2-1/2 to 3 hours, until very tender.

Drain liquid and chill ribs well. Don't try to handle or cut ribs, or they will fall apart.

To make sauce: Combine ingredients in a saucepan and bring to simmer, stirring to dissolve spices and sugar. Cool. Makes about 2 cups.

Prepare grill (heat should be medium, not high). Scrape excess fat from ribs and cut into easy-to-handle portions. Place on grill. Baste generously with sauce (don't baste too early, though, or sauce will burn). Grill until heated through. Serves 4 to 6.

Nutritional information unavailable.