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Barfly
Jason Genegabus




Location and drink variety
make Ryan’s a favorite

Besides a frosted mug filled with ice-cold beer, there are few drinks better suited for summer than the Mojito.

Ryan's Grill

Location: 1200 Ala Moana Blvd. (Ward Centre)

Hours: 11:15 a.m. to 2 a.m. Mondays through Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 2 a.m. Sundays

Call: 591-9132

My introduction to the refreshing combination of rum, lime, mint leaves and soda came during my college years in Southern California. At the time, it was a staple at beach-house barbecues and popular among those imbibing during lunch. In recent years, the cocktail has enjoyed a surge in popularity here in Honolulu.

When a friend admitted to never trying a Mojito, I took it upon myself to make the critical introduction. Our destination was Ryan's Grill, a longtime favorite of the pau hana crowd that also boasts one of the most diverse drink and pupu menus in town.

GRABBING A drink at Ryan's is an experience that's changed very little over the years.

Along with neighboring Compadres Bar and Grill, the restaurant has been a constant presence on the second floor of Ward Centre, with a combination of indoor and outdoor seating just across the street from Ala Moana Beach Park. A lounge area to the left of the main entrance is where the action is, with about a dozen barstools available at the bar itself.

Smokers will want to continue all the way outside, where ashtrays are provided and you're welcome to light up. Traditional lunch and dinner seating is also offered, making this a practical choice for a first date.

But the crowds are biggest here during pau hana, especially when happy-hour prices are in effect from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. Live entertainment is featured from 8:30 to 11:30 p.m. on Wednesdays, and you'll see more people showing up for Monday Night Football once the NFL season gets started in a few weeks.

On any given night here, you're likely to see a mix of young and old, from middle-aged white-collar executives to food service workers in their 20s who just got off a shift and are looking for a place to unwind. A visit last weekend had us passing by a table of grandparents downing martinis before settling in at an outside table next to a pair of girlfriends, who spent almost 45 minutes gossiping about guys before rushing off to beat the line at a nearby club.



art
FL MORRIS / FMORRIS@STARBULLETIN.COM
Derrick Stevens, left, and Scott Kitamori keep the crowds happy at Ryan's Grill.



AS WE sat and watched the evening roll along through a Mojito-induced haze, I began to realize how much the restaurant caters to its regular customers.

Along with seven Mojito choices, the bar boasts a dozen different margaritas, seven types of martinis and a half-dozen choices of both Cosmopolitans and bar teas. And that doesn't include more than three dozen other choices that are also available on Ryan's drink menu!

Beer fans are in luck, too, with a bunch of taps complementing the more than 100 varieties of bottled brew served daily. August used to be the month that the restaurant celebrated its annual beer festival, but management ended up expanding it to include the entire summer.

With so many different choices, it's no wonder people keep going back to Ryan's again and again. Its central location, extensive selection and comfortable atmosphere make it an attractive option for those who want to skip all the pretension and just kick back with a cold one.

How much for a Bud Light?
Bottled beers start in the $3 to $4 range at Ryan's, with a lot of other options for the more adventurous. The Pirate Mojito ($6.50) is a clever twist on the popular drink, with coconut-pineapple rum and a dark rum float added to give it a bit more kick. The Fruit Sampler ($7.75) is also worth a try, with three shot-sized martinis in lychee, melon and watermelon flavors.

Get things to do?
Televisions are spread throughout the lounge area, with a projection screen centrally located near the restaurant's front entrance. Live entertainment is also offered on Wednesday nights.

What about the grinds?
You can't go wrong with the Kobe Sliders with Taro Strings ($9.99), three miniature burgers that go well with a cold beer. Don't bother with the Rock Shrimp Cocktail with Chili Aioli ($9.99), but opt instead for summer specials like the Poke Sampler ($10.95) or Beer Battered Mochiko Chicken ($6.95).

And the help?
An extended wait for our first round of drinks didn't do much to impress us, and it always seemed like we had to flag someone down in order to get another round.


See the Columnists section for some past articles.
Barfly appears every Friday in Star-Bulletin Weekend. E-mail Jason Genegabus at jason@starbulletin.com with suggestions of neighborhood bars to visit.


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