---

Trendy Shokudo is an
attraction for the curious

What's more important, substance or style? We make that decision almost every day, from the clothes we wear and cars we drive, to the company we keep and neighborhoods we choose to call home.

Shokudo Japanese Restaurant and Bar Location: 1585 Kapiolani Blvd. Hours: 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily Call: 941-3701

The question is also relevant when choosing a watering hole. Do cheap beer prices justify a lower standard when it comes to service and overall cleanliness? Why drink at the classiest joint in town if a college kid at a keg party can make a better cocktail than the guy they've got tending bar?

After nearly five months in business, Shokudo Japanese Restaurant and Bar continues to enjoy steady business from curious Honolulu residents. A diverse menu, coupled with innovative interior design, have made it an instant hit among both late-night scenesters and families looking for an affordable dining alternative to Zippy's or Columbia Inn.

THE KEY to an enjoyable drinking experience at Shokudo is to realize what this place is and what it isn't.

As the first American location of 50 planned for the next decade, it's definitely an ambitious attempt by owner Tetsuya Emura to get everything right the first time.

He enlisted the help of Japanese designer Yasumichi Morita, who also planned the layout for upscale Manhattan eatery Megu. A private dining room, two semi-private tables and a tiered seating area are a cut above the usual rectangular space with a bar at one end.

And the emphasis isn't entirely on drinking -- the English translation of Shokudo is "dining room," not to be confused with an izakaya, or Japanese-style pub that offers food. More than 60 items are served here, with seasonal specials rotating in and out every couple of months.

Shokudo's 2 a.m. closing time also means you can avoid the dinner crowd and slide through for a few before moving on to The O Lounge, Venus or Zen. Eight different types of sake, two kinds of shochu and plum wine provide alternatives to the usual martini choices.

---

FL MORRIS / FMORRIS@STARBULLETIN.COM Shokudo's cool decor and trendy mixtures make the restaurant an appealing place for upwardly mobile young professionals who are looking for a different place to socialize. Pictured is Shokudo Japanese Restaurant and Bar manager Yuki Yokoyama.

---

AND ALTHOUGH I didn't realize it at the time, my first drink here provided fantastic insight.

Shokudo currently offers Budweiser in a 16-ounce aluminum bottle, and I found myself hooked by the shiny new container. But halfway into my beer, I realized I was drinking just another bottle of Bud.

Mixing simple with sophisticated kicks up the cool factor enough for patrons to forget about spotty service or weak drinks, and still recommend it to friends. Oversized paper lanterns and a curtain of wooden slats connected by S-shaped metal links make you want to stop and stare.

But keep in mind that a reputation as the trendy alternative can only last so long before people get bored and move on.

For now, Shokudo remains a must-visit for the upwardly mobile young professional with friends to impress and money to burn.

How much for a Bud Light?
The Barfly spent $4 for a 16-ounce aluminum bottle of Budweiser. Ten different martinis are available for $7 each, and you can't go wrong with a grape-flavored Calpico vodka soda ($6) or Honey Lemon vodka soda ($6).

Get things to do?
Just like most other restaurants in town, there isn't anything else to do at Shokudo but eat, drink and be merry.

What about the grinds?
A huge fold-out menu is split into different categories, with color pictures to go with the prices. The assorted sashimi ($13.75) arrived on a bed of ice, with nine fat pieces of ahi and salmon arranged beautifully. The deep-fried chicken ($8.75) was another winner, although it smelled like peanut butter and tasted a little like bacon. But we ate every last piece!

And the help?
An excessive wait for our first round of drinks and a forgetful server didn't do much to impress, although we had a slightly better experience sitting at the bar itself during a subsequent visit. The staff seems well-intentioned, but crowds still appear to throw them for a loop at times.