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By The Glass
Jay Kam






The grenache grape is a
somewhat overlooked gem

Grenache is a red wine grape that doesn't see the spotlight like cabernet sauvignon, merlot or pinot noir. The grenache grape, normally used in blends, is rarely bottled by itself and is hardly ever featured prominently on the label.

Grenache usually finds itself blended with other Rhone grapes, such as syrah and mourverdre, but a lot of other great wines use grenache as a major component -- for example, many Chateauneuf de Papes from France.

There are some great and interesting grenache vineyards in Paso Robles, Calif. Australia has many vineyards of grenache that are more than 40 years old. And Spain, where grenache is known as garnacha, is producing some great examples at dirt-cheap prices, despite the weak U.S. dollar.

My Top 10 reasons for drinking grenache:

10. Few grenaches are over-oaked and many are made totally without oak. Purity at its best.

9. It is a warm-weather pinot noir. Like pinot, grenache has a light-to-medium body with an elegant mouth-feel. But where pinot usually has restrained cherry flavors and earthiness, grenache has full-throttle fruit -- strawberry, blackberry and cherry -- and no earthiness.

8. Versatility with food. I enjoy grenache with burritos, Thai food, lamb, grilled foods, roast duck, steak, pork chops, pasta, salami ... just about anything!

7. Versatility with company. Good grenaches are crowd pleasers. Novice wine drinkers love the lush fruit. Connoisseurs appreciate the elegance.

6. The wine equivalent of fruit punch. Lots of luscious ripe fruit, and the tannins are soft and sweet.

5. Fun and unpretentious. Most grenaches, even the great ones, are meant to be sucked down, not contemplated.

4. Despite it being the second most widely planted grape on the Earth, it really hasn't been discovered by the masses.

3. As a result of No. 4, prices are still reasonable.

2. Who cares if they age well, they are too darn sexy now!

1. It ain't merlot.

Here are some suggestions:

2003 Borsao Vina Borgia ($7.50): 100 percent grenache from Spain. Tank-fermented -- no oak -- which shows off the freshness of the fruit (strawberry, raspberry and cherry juice). A simple but gratifying wine. Try it with a burrito or salsa and chips.

2004 Borsao Borsao ($8.99): Pure grenache from Spain. Straightforward, but satisfying, the big brother of Vina Borgia. Think Chinese roast duck or pork dishes.

2001 Beckmen Grenache ($23.50): A leading California producer.

2002 Twelve Staves Grenache ($23.99): One of Australia's top producers. The vineyards are 70 years old.



Jay Kam is president of Vintage Wine Cellar.


This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to features@starbulletin.com



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