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Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi
Hawaii’s
Back Yard
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi





Dolphins a highlight of
thrilling snorkel-sail

When the sails on Pacific Whale Foundation's 50-foot catamaran Manutea go up, so do passengers' spirits.

If you go ...

What: Lanai Dolphin Champagne Sail Eco-Adventure

Check in: Pacific Whale Foundation's Ocean Discovery Store, 612 Front St., Lahaina, 30 minutes prior to departure

Tour: Departs at 8 a.m. daily from Lahaina Harbor, returning at 1:30 p.m.

Cost: $99.95 for adults, $49.50 for ages 3 to 12, free for ages 2 and under. Includes breakfast (tropical fruit, pastries, juices and Hawaiian coffee); barbecue lunch of garlic and herb grilled chicken breast, pesto pasta salad with cheese tortellini, Caesar salad, insalata caprese, sweet bread rolls, beer, wine and mai tais; champagne, macadamia nut pie, chocolate chip cookies and fruit tarts on the return sail; snorkel gear and flotation devices; and a marine poster and wild dolphin guide (one per party). Kamaaina receive a 50 percent discount with valid identification.

Call: 249-8811 on Maui or 800-942-5311 from the other islands

E-mail: reservations@pacificwhale.org

Web site: www.pacificwhale.org

Notes: Bring a towel, sunscreen, sunglasses and light jacket. Wear a bathing suit under your cover-up or clothes. Strollers need to be left on shore. Those who want to learn more about the wild dolphins and toothed whales of Lanai can download the color guide, "Watching Hawaii's Toothed Whales and Dolphins" from PWF's Web site (look for the link on the bottom of the home page). Or send a self-addressed stamped envelope (requires 37 cents in postage) for a printed copy of the guide to Pacific Whale Foundation, Free Dolphin Guide, 300 Maalaea Road, Suite 211, Wailuku, HI 96793.

"Sailing is an exhilarating, inspiring adventure," says Manutea's captain, Jake Tiller. "You leave behind all your cares and worries on land, and you sit back and revel in the beauty around you. Being at sea where you can breathe fresh air and feel the wind on your face is totally rejuvenating!"

PWF is a nonprofit Maui-based organization that promotes appreciation, understanding and protection of whales, dolphins, coral reefs and oceans through marine research, seminars on marine conservation issues and educational eco-tours.

Last month, it introduced its newest excursion -- the Lanai Dolphin Champagne Sail Eco-Adventure -- aboard the 49-passenger Manutea. The 5 1/2-hour trip between Maui and Lanai includes breakfast, lunch, snorkeling, champagne and an array of desserts on the return sail.

The tour is an offshoot of PWF's Wild Dolphin Watch off Lanai, which began eight years ago and continues on the power catamaran Ocean Quest. Says Tiller, "Although that cruise remains very popular, we found that people wanted a more upscale, relaxed cruise that involved sailing, so we decided to launch this new trip."

On the 45-minute journey to and from Lanai, Manutea skims the surface of the sea at a leisurely 14 miles per hour. "There are fantastic views of the West Maui Mountains and Haleakala volcano, Molokai and Kahoolawe," says Tiller. "When we raise the sails, everyone on the boat smiles, shouts and claps; it's such a rush!

"You hear the wind and the slap of the waves hitting the boat, and that's it. With sailing, there's no noise and you don't pollute. Wind has provided the power to move boats for thousands of years; it's amazing to be able to harness that energy and glide on the ocean without the use of fossil fuel."

Manutea's amenities include a spacious shaded cabin with large windows, bench seating on the bow and along the stern, twin trampolines that are ideal for sunbathing, a refreshment bar, barbecues, stereo system, freshwater showers and swim steps for easy access to the ocean.

Even better, "Because Manutea is a catamaran, it is nice and stable," says Tiller. "While sailing, it doesn't heel over (lean) the way that a single-hulled sailboat would."

Keep an eye out for flying fish, spotted and bottlenose dolphins, and short-finned pilot whales and false killer whales, both of which are in the family of "toothed whales" that use teeth instead of baleen to snare prey.


art
PACIFIC WHALE FOUNDATION
The Lanai Dolphin Champagne Sail Eco-Adventure offers Maui visitors a chance to view spotted and bottlenose dolphins up close.



AS MANUTEA nears the southern coast of Lanai, Puupehe -- also known as Sweetheart Rock -- commands attention. Standing 80 feet high about 150 feet offshore Manele and Hulopoe bays, this imposing landmark is the setting for one of Hawaii's best-known legends.

Long ago, so the story goes, a young warrior brought Puupehe, a beautiful Maui princess, back to his home island of Lanai as his wife. He was so in love with her, he did not want other men to see her, so he confined her to a sea cave near the tall rock.

One day when he was away, powerful waves pounded Lanai. The warrior rushed back to the cave, but he was too late: Puupehe had drowned. Heartbroken, he buried her in a tomb on the rock, then leaped to his death in the ocean.

Today, if you look closely at Puupehe, you'll see a tomblike structure atop its summit. Archaeologists have found no human remains there, but believe it is a bird heiau (temple) constructed by the ancient Hawaiians.

During the Lanai Dolphin Champagne Sail, certified marine naturalists provide narration about this and other sights. Lanai's rugged southwestern coast, where Manutea anchors, is home to a pod of 200 spinner dolphins. As these acrobatic animals leap and whirl like graceful ballerinas, you'll understand how they got their name.

"When we see the dolphins, we talk about them for a while, then we put on some light music and let everyone sit and watch them," notes Tiller. "Even people who are mad at the world are always happy after seeing the dolphins. They are such a calming, positive influence."

Manutea sails are lowered for four hours, giving guests plenty of time to play. Because there's little runoff from rainfall in this area, visibility in the ocean usually is clear down to 75 feet, providing ideal conditions for snorkeling.

On any given day, you'll marvel at an endless parade of incredible creatures, including green sea turtles, parrotfishes, butterfly fishes, Moorish idols, yellow tangs, black durgons, goatfishes and wrasses.

DURING THE SAIL back to Maui, elementary school-age kids are invited to participate in PWF's free Junior Naturalist Program. They get handbooks and sit with the naturalists and talk about the marine life they've just seen.

"At the beginning of the trip, I tell people that by the time we return to Lahaina Harbor, they're going to feel like family," Tiller says. "That's so true. You don't share a special experience like our sail to Lanai without forming a bond with your fellow passengers -- and with nature!"




See the Columnists section for some past articles.

Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based free-lance writer and Society of American Travel Writers award winner.



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