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Gingko nuts

The gingko nut, called ginnan in Japanese, is a symbolic ingredient for the Chinese and Japanese. A few gingko nuts in a dish represent good fortune in traditional recipes.

The basics: The beautiful gingko tree with its characteristic fan-shaped leaves is native to China and is believed to date to prehistoric times.

The Chinese have cultivated this tree for thousands of years and have used the nuts for much of that time for medicinal purposes. Gingko nuts are believed to remedy a number of bladder and urinary problems. The popular gingko biloba supplement taken to aid memory function is also a product of the gingko tree.

Because of reverence for the tree, the nuts are common in celebratory dishes.

Gingko nuts resemble pistachios when shelled. They have a hard, pale white outer shell that is cracked open to reveal a soft, yellow meat covered in a thin, brownish skin. The skin may be removed by simmering the nut in hot water.

Gingko nuts have a slightly bitter flavor and resemble beans in texture and taste when cooked. They are an essential ingredient in certain Chinese jai (monk's food) and Japanese chawanmushi (a steamed savory custard). Gingko nuts in jai represent silver ingots and good fortune, and thus are necessary ingredient to the celebration of the lunar new year.

Storing: Once opened, canned nuts must be kept refrigerated and used in three to five days. Fresh gingko nuts will last several weeks refrigerated in a sealed container.

Use: Besides jai, the Chinese consume the nuts in puddings, custards and sweet soups. The shells are sometimes dyed red and the nuts served at weddings.

The nut may be toasted, boiled or steamed in savory or sweet dishes.

Where to buy: Fresh gingko nuts are seasonal; available in the fall. Canned nuts are more common, and may be found in Asian markets and in Chinatown. Prices can be steep -- $4 to $9 a can -- depending on size and brand.