Liliha grinds

There are lots of deals and
lots of local-style fare

Being of the former mindset, I discovered this phenomenon only after moving from Waipio Gentry to Kailua, which over the years has been the birthplace of many a culinary empire, from Assaggio to Boston Pizza. Given our work-weary reluctance to venture from one burrough to the next, it can be hard to keep tabs on what's going on a mere 10 miles away.

Anticipating the move from Kailua into Liliha, I looked forward to many more dining options. In Kailua, I'd also grown accustomed to eating "haole food," as it is a haven for pasta lovers and home to many breakfast hangouts. When not chowing down on pastas at Assaggio's, Zia's, Baci Bistro or Luigi's Place, I'd be having frittatas or omelets at Brent's, Cinnamon's or Time's Coffee Shop. In between there were healthy California-style fish tacos at Maui Tacos or vegetarian offerings at Down to Earth.

I'm as local as anyone can be after growing up in Waipahu, but Liliha and its environs brought periodic bouts of culture shock. During an early Saturday morning search for half-way decent coffee, I asked at a Kalihi pet store, "Hey, where can I get a cup of coffee?"

"Oh, you mean like Starbucks?"

"Yeah."

"Oh, ah, gee, I donno. I think maybe Pearlridge the closest. You know, you in Kalihi."

GEORGE F. LEE / GLEE@STARBULLETIN.COM Carmen Uta, left, and Queenie Lee at Masu's Massive Plate Lunch prepare lau-lau and kalua pork to go.

BEING IN LILIHA has meant closer proximity to Chinatown, and weekly visits to Tai Pan in the Chinatown Cultural Center have replaced trips to Maui Tacos. And, like many others who work downtown, it sure is easy to stop on my way up the hill on Liliha Street, and pull up to one of the following:

Julie & Hoang's: With one of the neatest looking storefronts on the strip, this was my first stop. The great thing about this neighborhood is that no matter where you go, you'll find dishes at a dollar or two less than any other part of town, and that is true here. Delicate anise-scented phó is $5.25 for a plenty-large-enough medium size filled with the works: sliced beef, tendon, meatballs and beef brisket. This is a no-frills operation, though, so spring rolls don't come with the lavish gardens you might get at its Chinatown counterparts. There's lettuce and a few sprigs of mint, but no basil. Maybe they just grew tired of seeing the greens go uneaten. At 1502 Liliha St. Call 521-3545.

Golden Coin: A three-entree combo plate will run you $6.35 and you can have your choices of pancit, chicken or pork adobo, pumpkin and squash, roast pork or dinuguan, if you must. But even when I'm not in the mood for Filipino cuisine I find myself stopping here for a cup of ube ice cream, $2.50. Ono. At 1719 Liliha St. Call 528-2990. Tip: Prices are slightly lower than at its nearby North King Street sister restaurant.

GEORGE F. LEE / GLEE@STARBULLETIN.COM Julie Dasconcillo Trinh and Hoang Trinh, of Julie and Hoang's, proudly present their Vietnamese fare, including spring rolls and a garlic shrimp and pork chop combo.

Hoy Tin Chinese Restaurant: Liliha is also a place that seems stuck in the '50s, which has its charms. There's a lot of old-style Cantonese restaurants and this is one I intend to explore further. Just try the pork-stuffed eggplant and you'll be hooked. At 1727 Liliha St. Call 533-7333.

Liliha Korean Bar-B-Que: If you must eat vegetables, this is one of the few places that offers more than cabbage and iceberg lettuce, with four choices to accompany every plate. Your first order of business is to try the kalbi, a thick cut of shortribs without the gristle and fat that some other outlets try to sell you. At 1805 Liliha St., corner of Kuakini. Call 599-4889.

Masu's Massive Plate Lunch: This was one of the first restaurants I ever reviewed, and owner Paul Masuoka says much has changed, including the loss of his mother last year, who had worked side by side with him until age 85; having to work until 7:30 p.m. (past closing time was 2:30 p.m.); and having had to raise prices of that massive plate by, gasp!, one whole dollar. Diners can still count on him to prevent them from going hungry, as those $7.75 plates can easily feed two adults, with a few leftovers for the young'uns. Regulars are trained to plan their dinners a month ahead. Masuoka prints up with a daily menu at the start of the month and diners call in to reserve their plate for specific days. He's not trying to be exclusive, but says that for a restaurant of its size, over-ordering can be costly. For those who practice spontaneity it can be disappointing to find you won't always be able get that popular sirloin steak special for the day, but you can usually count on such basics as mahimahi ($3.95), kalua pork, and currently, a laulau plate special for only $3.75. At 1808 Liliha St., corner of Kuakini. Call 524-4260.

There are dozens of other little mom-and-pop hangouts that I plan to get to before our lease expires.