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808 is a work in progress

Japan's government was thwarted in its imperialist designs on Hawaii more than 50 years ago, but where that nation's Zero pilots failed, its entrepreneurs took up the charge, first gaining ground in Waikiki and circling a 'burb near you. If there's anything we can learn from this takeover, it's "make food, not war."

Last week I mentioned the rise of such stylish Japanese fusion restaurants as Bistro A Un, Momomo and Okonomi Cuisine Kai. Then there's the yakiniku restaurant Gyu-Kaku, which has set up its training headquarters here on its expansion Eastward. Thus, the director of operations and manager of its soon to open New York restaurant Issei will be from Hawaii.

To this list of imported efforts you can add 808 Kapahulu Fusion Dining & Bar, whose owner must have been incredibly patient or lucky to have secured an address to match the telephone area code identified with Hawaii.

The fear with style is that a restaurant can use it to distract diners from noticing a lack of substance. Here, they're trying very hard, and if a few dishes seem off, that could be attributed to the prejudice of our Western-trained palates. Give them time. Ten years ago I scoffed at the New Wave Japanese movement's weak fare. But pioneers proved resilient and willing to learn.

These days, meat sauces at 808, as at Bistro A Un, are impressive, inching closer and closer to classical European ideals, though with an Asian aesthetic -- a combination we like to think was invented here. Just as with consumer electronics, however, it's not hard to imagine the day Japan chefs sell Hawaii Regional Cuisine right back to us.

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F.L. MORRIS / FMORRIS@STARBULLETIN.COM Bartender Pierre Tristan holds a house specialty at 808 Fusion Dining and Bar, hasu steak topped with Kahuku shrimp.

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SO WHY HAWAII? Simple. We've grown up with chop suey tastes and pot-luck dinners bringing Filipino, Chinese, Hawaiian, Korean and Japanese foods to the table, not to mention such haole fare as green bean casseroles and deviled eggs. Umm!

That oughta tell any budding entrepreneur that we're open to a melange of flavors, just bring it on!

That melange comes together quite nicely in 808's assemblage of fried Kahuku shrimp resting atop a hasu "steak" ($9.80) of mashed lotus root, diced celery and herbs. The texture of this vegetarian steak is so wonderful, you'd think the pieces of shredded crab and lobster are baked into the patty, but they actually lend their flavor to a Chinese-style seafood sauce.

This single dish made up for a salad of diced salmon and avocado ($6.50) rendered barely recognizable under lemon mayonnaise. And I didn't care much for a vegetable tomato soup ($4.50) with off-the-shelf flavor, and as strongly flavored as asparagus is, it is merely a bit player in a cold cream of asparagus soup ($4.50). Those who don't like to eat vegetables may find that appealing.

Skipping those dishes will at least prevent you from overeating if you're trying to stick to any kind of New Year diet. You may want to save your stomach for the main attractions of fresh catch with garlic lemon sauce ($19.50), grilled Ewa chicken ($12.80), filet mignon with a rich mushroom sauce ($18.90) or grilled lamb chop topped with a thick, also lemony herb paste ($17.80). That's it. The menu is very basic.

The steak comes with grilled asparagus and a few pieces of grilled zucchini, summer squash and bell peppers. No starches are attached so you might want to share a plate of spaghetti ($9.50), simply tossed with garlic and olive oil, with a splash of refreshing citrus from yuzu. The pasta is also tossed with arugula or mizuna, perfect for the new year, depending on availability. It may be too plain for those accustomed to local-style Italian that calls for a truckload of meat, potatoes, veggies and seafood on pasta.

You can also get an entree-sized pasta dish served with a more traditional tomato sauce and Kahuku shrimp, for $15.95.

One of the nice things about being on Kapahulu is the array of restaurants nearby, and I was hearing in stereo those around me making plans for dessert at Leonard's, Starbucks and someplace else that escaped me because I fixated on malasadas. 808 offers espresso jelly, custard pudding and taro in puff pastry if you want to linger.

In spite of some dishes that miss their mark, 808 shows promise. Its menu is evolving, and along with the opening of neighboring Yakiniku Toraji next week, 808's presence is an indication that Kapahulu is growing up as well.

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808 Kapahulu Fusion Dining and Bar 808 Kapahulu Ave. / 737-8081 Food Service Ambience Value Hours: 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily Cost: About $40 to $50 for two without drinks