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Wednesday, December 15, 2004
50-foot waves
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Waves in excess of 20 feet are predicted to occur between midnight and 6 p.m. tomorrow.
"We've also got excellent light winds and clean conditions," said Young. "It can't get much better."
But it will not be just fun under the sun for North Shore and Leeward communities. A National Weather Service advisory for most islands is in effect, and the monster waves could do some damage, civil defense workers warn.
The peak of the swell is expected to coincide with a high tide of 2 1/2 feet above the mean-low tide.
"High surf coupled with unusual high tide levels have a tendency to magnify the effects of the event and increase the probability of damages to homes, roads and infrastructure in the affected areas," said Doug Aton, acting administrator for the Oahu Civil Defense.
North Shore and Leeward Coast residents have been advised to take precautions.
"We've been pretty lucky. We've only had a wave hit just once," said Gary Quinn, a 25-year-resident of Ka Waena Road on the North Shore.
"It was just like having 100 gardeners sweep out the leaves from under the house," Quinn said.
The large waves hitting the islands today were caused by 60-mph winds over the northwest Pacific Ocean this past weekend, said Tom Birchard, forecaster for the National Weather Service in Honolulu.
"The strong winds were associated with a series of low pressure systems," he said. "There were two lows that joined forces to make a long stretch of enhanced winds. As they moved toward the island, they sort of clean up a little bit and separate and become swells."
A high surf advisory was also issued for the west-facing shores of Maui and the Big Island, while a small craft advisory was issued for Oahu, Kauai, Maui and the Big Island. Areas such as Laniakea and Kamehameha Highway on Oahu, as well as Hilo Bayfront Highway on the Big Island, are normally swept over with seawater when high surf occurs.
"We will anticipate water washing over the roadways in the favored areas, which will likely mean sand as well, if not other debris," said Birchard.
Light winds are expected to last through Friday. "Right now, the strongest winds I see are about 10 mph. At night, it's practically calm over the islands," he said.
After today, the swell is expected to slowly decline through Friday. But another large swell is predicted to occur sometime after Friday morning and continue through Saturday.
On Oahu, camping permits were not issued for Malaekahana State Park until further notice. Campers were advised to leave the area yesterday. Permits also were suspended at Kalalau trail on Kauai.
Park staff also informed campers at Hanakapiai to leave the area, while campers at Kalalau Valley were advised to relocate to higher ground at Red Hill.
On Oahu, the high surf marked the first day of the main event in the Rip Curl Pro Pipeline Masters yesterday.
"We had a very good day today. It's about 6 to 10 feet," event spokeswoman Young said.
Prepare for danger
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