GEORGE F. LEE / GLEE@STARBULLETIN.COM Thin baguette slices are topped with goat cheese and beets dressed in a light vinaigrette. For recipes, see below.

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Snowy-white goat cheese
brings class to the holiday table

Although goat cheese has been around for thousands of years, it is only during the last decade that this pungent dairy food has gained widespread acceptance in the United States.

Goat cheese guidance Purchasing tips: Look for products that are white and creamy. Packages should not be moldy, bloated with air, or leaking whey. Storage: Refrigerate cheese between 35 and 45 degrees and at high humidity, preferably in the vegetable bin. Some experts recommend wrapping leftover cheese in wax paper, then in plastic wrap. Cheese will keep even better if rewrapped with a fresh covering each time it is used. Safe eating: Fresh goat cheese should be eaten soon after purchase. Even if the cheese has a "best used by" date, exercise common sense. Discard any cheese that doesn't look or smell right. Serving: For best flavor, serve goat cheese at room temperature. It is also delightful warm. Do not overheat or, like most other cheeses, it may separate and become grainy.

How did it become so popular? In a word, availability.

Goat cheese is ubiquitous on restaurant menus and in cookbooks and food magazines. It is affordable and available at farmers' markets, local supermarkets -- even warehouse stores such as Sam's and Costco. Consumers have a greater choice of goat-cheese products, including a variety of styles, textures and flavors.

Holiday parties are a perfect time to bring goat cheese to the home table. Snowy white and distinctly flavorful, goat cheese creates a plate that's striking both in appearance and taste.

Until recently, most goat cheese was imported from France, where it is known as chevre. But there's been a sharp increase in the domestic production of goat cheese, especially by small farmsteads. Hawaii has two such boutique producers, one on Maui and one on the Big Island.

Goat cheese produced on small farms is commonly referred to as artisan cheese, prepared in small batches, often by hand. Artisan cheese generally reflects the uniqueness of its environment, as well as the personality of the farmers who produce it.

Artisan goat cheese also differs from the mass-produced commercial product in the way the cheese is ripened. "We take much more time and do it the old-fashioned way," said Thomas Kafsack of Surfing Goat Dairy on Maui. "We let it ripen in olive oil for half a year before we sell it. It develops the best flavor after six months."

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COURTESY SURFING GOAT DAIRY Eva Kafsack tends to the goats on the Maui farm she owns with her husband, Thomas.

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Surfing Goat Dairy markets several distinctively Hawaiian goat cheeses, including "Purple Rain," flavored with Maui lavender; "Wildfire," coated with kiawe ash; and "Maui's Secret," made with local pineapple. Surfing Goat Dairy products may be found at many restaurants and shops on Maui, Oahu and the Big Island. The purveyor is also expanding its mainland market with vendors in New York, Hyannis on Cape Cod, San Diego and Carmel, Calif.

Kafsak and his wife, Eva, invite visitors to their Kula farm. Call (808) 878-2870 or visit the Web site, www.surfinggoatdairy.com.

While Surfing Goat grows, the Hawaii Island Goat Dairy remains limited in the production of its Big Island Goat Cheese. Most is pre-sold to restaurants and hotels on the Big Island.

Very little is left for retail sale, according to owner Dick Threlfall. Big Island Goat Cheese is available in natural, dill-garlic, roasted garlic and macadamia nut-basil pesto flavors.

Goat cheese is a versatile ingredient popping up in all kinds of dishes, including spreads, salads, pizza and pasta. Other uses include egg dishes, mashed potatoes, grilled sandwiches, vegetable side dishes and as a stuffing for meat or poultry. You can even find a dessert recipe for Goat Cheese Chocolate Truffles at www.epicurious.com.

The natural affinity of beets and goat cheese makes this recipe as tasty as it is pretty. Be sure to mince the beets finely, so that they can be pressed down into the goat cheese and won't tumble off while eating.

Cakebread Cellars recommends a sauvignon blanc with this dish.

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Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Trim and discard greens from beets. Wrap in foil and bake 45 minutes to 1 hour, until tender. Cool.

While beets are cooking, brush both sides of bread with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Spread slices on a baking sheet and bake about 10 minutes, until crisp and golden. Cool.

Peel beets by gently rubbing skin away with your fingers. Cut into a 1/8-inch dice or finely mince. Transfer to a bowl. Add shallot, remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and vinegar. Mix well. Add dill and season with salt and pepper.

In a small bowl, mash goat cheese until creamy. Spread 1 teaspoon over each bread slice. Scoop a heaping teaspoon of beet tartare over half of the goat cheese, pressing down to compact tartare against cheese. Sprinkle center of each crostini with minced chives. Serves 6.

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For this gourmet salad, rounds of goat cheese are dredged in panko and sautéed. The resulting contrast of warm, creamy cheese, crisp panko crust and tender baby salad greens is simply wonderful.

Whisk together egg whites and water in a shallow bowl. Spread bread crumbs on plate. Dip cheese rounds in egg, letting excess drip off, then dredge in bread crumbs, pressing lightly so they adhere, and put on a plate. Refrigerate 15 minutes.

Heat oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Add cheese rounds and cook, turning once, until golden, about 1 minute total. Remove skillet from heat.

To make dressing: Whisk together vinegar, salt, sugar, mustard and pinch of pepper in a large bowl. Add 4 tablespoons (1/4 cup) oil in a slow stream, whisking until well blended.

Add greens to dressing and toss gently to coat. Arrange salad on four plates and top with warm cheese. Serves 4 as an appetizer.

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This flat Italian omelet, great for brunch or a light supper, is a satisfying alternative to scrambled eggs. Broccoli and cherry tomatoes add a festive touch. The dish may be prepared up to one day ahead, covered and refrigerated until ready to use.

In a medium bowl, combine the eggs, salt, and pepper. Whisk until well-blended. Stir in 1 cup cheese.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

In an ovenproof 11-inch nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add shallots and sauté about 2 minutes, or until soft but not browned. Add broccoli and water, cover and cook 2 to 3 minutes, or until broccoli turns bright green, water is evaporated and broccoli is slightly tender. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Arrange broccoli mixture in skillet evenly and pour egg mixture over. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, about 7 minutes, until bottom of mixture is lightly set. Arrange tomatoes on sides around outside of pan. Sprinkle with remaining 1 cup cheese.

Transfer skillet to oven and bake frittata 10 to 15 minutes, or until puffed and brown and cheese is melted.

Serve from pan, or invert frittata onto a large platter, placing a spatula underneath to ensure it will slide out easily. Invert again onto a serving platter so browned side faces up. Serve hot or at room temperature. Serves 6.

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