COURTESY MARC SCHECHTER Takeo's Gypsy party dress was made for a client in Japan in 1990.

Takeo through time

After two decades the designer
has made a successful merger of
his culture and dreams

The young assume temporary immunity from the "middle-age crazies," expecting the affliction to hit somewhere between the ages of 40 and 45, and suspecting that, like lightning, measles or chickenpox, it never strikes twice in the same place.

Art and fashion An exhibit of couture and design by Takeo and recent works by Jason Momoa On view: Tomorrow through Nov. 27; opening reception 6 to 8:30 p.m. Thursday Place: Pegge Hopper Gallery, 1164 Nuuanu Ave Hours: 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesdays to Fridays and 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays Admission: Free Call: 524-1160

Those older and wiser come to realize that the midlife-crisis phenomenon not only has the audacity to strike at any age, but can appear decade after decade, and as many as two or three times within a decade.

The symptoms are self-doubt, dissatisfaction and insecurity, occurring when one measures one's life in terms of successes and failures, wealth and status, counting up more negatives than positives.

The designer Takeo admits relying too heavily on standard measures of success when he was younger. Over the years he's won accolades for his creations, which often bear intricate beadwork and detailed embroidery. His gowns -- running the gamut from sedate to provocative -- have been worn by beauty queens, entertainers and Hawaii's first ladies. But, in marking his 20th year as a fashion designer, he says it doesn't matter whether others perceive his creations as beautiful or ugly, impressive or not. All that matters is his journey as an artist and human being, and what he becomes at the end of it.

A retrospective of Takeo's works, including photographs of his gowns and a handful of the garments, will be shown at the Pegge Hopper Gallery from tomorrow through Nov. 27. He'll be sharing the spotlight with his friend and protégé Jason Momoa, the "Baywatch-Hawaii" and "Hawaii" actor, who will show his artwork for the first time in Hawaii.

In examining the body of his work after 20 years, Takeo said, "It's definitely getting better and better, not in idea or execution, but in cultural things -- more sensitivity.

"When you are beginner, you want to destroy," said the Japanese-born designer. "Before, I don't like kimono, I don't like antique style. It's human process. Teenagers are anti, rebellious. They don't want approval of parents, but somehow they end up doing same things.

"I try to be European, but bottom line, my work reflects the Asian character I have in styling and execution. My designs have the feeling of seasons: autumn, winter, spring, fall."

COURTESY MARC SCHECHTER Takeo created the embroidered jacket in 1994 for a woman on Maui, and the beaded skirt in 1995, for a fashion show.

TAKEO SURFACED in Hawaii in the early '80s, when the economy was booming and there was plenty of work for designers commanding thousands of dollars for suits and gowns. Now, as one of the few remaining designers of his generation, he credits his Asian heritage for his perseverance.

"Twenty years ago a lot of designers were here, but they disappeared. I ask myself, What is the reason? I think everyone gives up so easily, but I don't give up, because that's the only way we know what we're good at."

Not that he didn't stray from designing. His forays included event planning and talent management, which resulted in his company 2Couture, with Eric Chandler, introducing Momoa and scores of model/actors to the public. But Takeo says design continues to bring him the most satisfaction.

If not for a couple of medical problems, including a fall that left him temporarily paralyzed and a heart attack four years ago that left him hospitalized for six months, Takeo said he may have continued blithely chasing fame and riches.

These days, he takes nothing for granted, showing his appreciation for loved ones in many small and grand gestures, including telling them he loves them after each conversation, as if it were his last with them.

"Some people have lots of money. Of course, I like, too, but money cannot buy happiness. Before, I wanted everything perfect in how I dress, behave. Now, I go all over wearing shorts and slippers. Some people deny to create surface, try to be someone else. They are running and running; outside, looks like they're doing great and happy, but it's very shallow.

"My life changed drastically when I had heart problem. That's when I go to Tibet, go back to nature. Once your life is threatened, you see how lucky you are, and I have appreciation for God or Buddha for giving me second chance. That's when I really ask, What am I doing this for?"

The answer is he was designing for himself all along, even when he thought he was sizing up another person.

"When I first started design, I think about the woman. I see a face, and I think I can do something good for that person. But now I know it's not about money, it's not about the other person, it's about me. It's about my life. I love to paint, I love to design, and the whole thing is connecting.

"It is the most wonderful thing to discover myself, be myself. That, to me, is my reward."

COURTESY MARC SCHECHTER This frothy party gown was created for beauty queen Nadine Tanega (now Hogan) in the late '80s.