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Barfly

Jason Genegabus


Jan Ken pau


EVERY SO often I'll get a request from a reader to visit a particular bar. Most times, it's their regular spot and they'd like me to share it with my readers.

But every once in a while, a reader's request sends me to an establishment that is in "uncharted territory," so to speak.

This week's bar falls into that latter category -- you've probably never even noticed its existence, much less stepped foot inside for a drink.

I've passed Pub Jan Ken Pon countless times while driving down South King Street, and have always wondered what was behind the wooden doors and frosted glass that keep you from being able to see inside.

Do underground rock-paper-scissors tournaments take place here? If it's a pub, does that mean there's draft beer available? Is it a hostess bar?

As always, there was only one way to find out, so I called up a friend who could speak a little Japanese and off we went to explore the unknown.

Pub Jan Ken Pon
Hours: 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily
Location: 1463 S. King St.
Phone: 947-3138

fly

PUSH OPEN one of the wooden doors and walk inside Pub Jan Ken Pon, and you'll find it's a very small room. About 10 barstools line the bar on the Diamond Head side, with a long couch taking up all of the opposite side.

Want to appear like you're a regular on your first visit? Skip the front door and use the back entrance to the bar. When you're driving, turn right on Kaheka Street from South King, and then take another right on Liona Street to reach a hidden parking lot with access to Jan Ken Pon.

My friend and I got funny looks when we first walked in through the front entrance (although I'm sure the fact that we looked local and were speaking English had something to do with it), but every last one of the regular customers who came in after us entered through the back door.

Although it's a small space, the bar is kept clean, with everything stored behind glass doors in wooden display cases.

And in typical Japanese fashion, there's also a display case filled with bottles of liquor that belong to various regular customers. Instead of buying one drink at a time, customers buy an entire bottle and have the bar store it for them to enjoy during subsequent visits.

SO THERE we sat, watching Japan's gymnastics team compete in the Olympics on television and listening to everyone else in the bar converse in Japanese as they sipped on shochu mixed with oolong tea.

Nope, there was no rock-paper-scissors action going on, and there wasn't a tap in the place -- just bottles. And while Pub Jan Ken Pon is licensed as a hostess bar by the Honolulu Liquor Commission, and you feel a subtle buy-me-drinkee vibe going on, none of the girls who appeared to be "hanging out" even bothered to approach us, much less solicit a drink.

If you're into singing Japanese karaoke, or conversing in the native tongue of the Land of the Rising Sun, this bar might be right up your alley. But after a couple of beers, this columnist was ready to move on to the next episode.

But hey, at least I can say I've been in there now, right?


How much for a Bud Light?
The Barfly drank $3 bottles of Bud Light during his visit to Pub Jan Ken Pon. The price drops to $2 per bottle during happy hour from 6 to 8 p.m.

Get things to do?
Two televisions are in the bar, although one is dedicated to just karaoke. Other than that, it's all about the conversation here -- in Japanese, of course.

What about the grinds?
Jan Ken Pon's kitchen offers a number of bar fare standards, including fried chicken ($3), steak ($10), yakisoba ($5), fried rice ($4) and musubi ($3). Koroke ($4), tsukemono ($3) and cold shabu shabu ($5) are also on the menu.

And the help?
From the moment we walked inside, we were recognized as not being regulars at the bar. Our driver's licenses were heavily scrutinized, and we got funny looks from all the other regulars who showed up after us. It was also disappointing to see the bartender pouring the regulars' drinks for them, but just setting our beers down and walking away when we would order. It felt like our presence in the bar was being tolerated instead of being welcomed -- not a good way to treat new customers, in my opinion.




See the Columnists section for some past articles.

Barfly appears every Friday in Star-Bulletin Weekend.
E-mail Jason Genegabus at jason@starbulletin.com with suggestions of neighborhood bars to visit.



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