Americans drinking
more wine, for lessA master sommelier calls the
value, quality and selection great
Wine selection for dummies has never been easier. That's not exactly how master sommelier -- that's wine expert to us dummies -- Fred Dame put it, but that's pretty much what he means.
"One of the great fun things about wine is that liking or disliking it is always subjective. If you know what you like, you're well ahead of the average person." --Fred Dame, Master sommelier
"The selection, quality and low cost of wines today has never, ever been better," said Dame, who will host the 23rd annual Kapalua Food & Wine Festival that begins on Maui tomorrow. "The assortment is unbelievable even compared to five years ago. Just go to your local supermarket and you'll find hundreds of varieties. It's great for the industry and the consumer."
Dame is one of a handful of individuals in the United States to earn the title of master sommelier, and one of only about 50 in the world.
In 2002, U.S. wine consumption reached its highest level in 16 years, despite the sluggish economy, and it continues to grow.
"Wine is in style," Dame said.
Consumption climbed to 246.3 million 9-liter cases in 2002, up 5 percent -- the largest percentage increase since 1996. Table wines -- $7.99 and less -- showed the largest gains. From 2001 to 2002, table wine sales increased 13.8 million cases.
The toughest battle for winemakers is fighting for a share in that $5.99 to $7.99 range, where quality has been consistently high, Dame said.
Both domestic and imported table wines recorded gains in 2002, but imports out-performed domestic wines, soaring 16.1 percent to 49.9 million cases, while U.S. wines were up 3.5 percent to 171.1 million cases.
Australia is the big winner in the import category, leapfrogging over France to become the second largest exporter of table wines to the United States after Italy.
What does it all mean?
"A growing sophistication among American consumers, which seems to indicate also a greater appreciation of good food," Dame said.
Whenever Dame visits a supermarket he goes to the wine section to see what consumers are buying for everyday drinking.
"I remember watching someone load up on 2003 chardonnay for $5.99 with an instantly redeemable coupon for 50 cents," he said. "I realized that the wine industry had achieved a dubious accomplishment. We've conditioned the American consumer to prefer very young wine."
The decades-old philosophy that wine has to be cellared is out the window.
"The French model was that you drink the wines your grandfather laid down and your child drinks the wine you laid down," Dame said. ""That's over. Wine is accessible early, hence the abundance of choices."
Although Dame says some varietals lend themselves to early consumption -- white zinfandel and nouveau wines, for example -- there remains great value in properly aging wines.
"There is some appreciation to older wines and I don't think people understand that anymore," he said. "The wine industry in the last 10 years has been very accommodating in changing production techniques to produce youthful wines that are softer and fruitier."
For all the variety the industry is offering, though, habits die hard.
"Seventy percent of people in restaurants drink chardonnay," Dame said.
White wines remain king, although the gap is narrowing. U.S. consumption of merlot has increased 165 percent in the last 10 years, he said.
"One of the great fun things about wine is that liking or disliking it is always subjective," Dame said. "If you know what you like, you're well ahead of the average person."
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KAPALUA WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL
Dates: Tomorrow through Sunday
Featuring: Cooking demonstrations, wine seminars, dining events through Kapalua resort.
Information: Call (800) KAPALUA or check online at www.kapaluamaui.com
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Sommelier's tips
Fred Dame offers these tips to finding a good bottle of wine for less than $8:>> "I look for something that is at least two years older than the year I'm standing in. We're in the cycle of the greatest buyers' market in the wine industry and that says the quality of production is there."
>> Also consider wine region. "Does it say just France or California -- or Napa, Sonoma or another specific noted wine area? That's important because you tend to get a better selection from a wine of appellation because regulations for those locations are more strict."
>> When ordering wine in a restaurant: "I always ask the server or sommelier for a recommendation. Then I ask what it tastes like and if they can give you a 10-second description I think they probably know something. If they have a blank look on their face, you're on your own."
What does he recommend in both premium and table wine categories?
Recommended whites
Sauvignon blanc: "It's two-thirds the price of chardonnay and inevitably better." Those from California, South Africa, New Zealand and South American are "spectacular."Riesling: The renowned white grape of Germany, Austria and the Alsace region of France is also popular in Washington and New York states, and certain parts of California and Australia. "I love the German Rieslings which are inexpensive and one of the greatest food wines in the world."
Pinot grigio: "I love the grape grown in Alsace, France, where it is known as pinot gris."
Recommended reds
Syrah: "It's on fire right now and has never been better across the world. The California and Australian varieties are spectacular."Zinfandel: "I know it's probably a sin to choose it because it has so many varieties, but there's nothing like a great bottle of California zin with meat."
Pinot noir: "The sommelier's friend, it's the most flexible grape in the world."
Malbec from Argentina: "It's part of the cabernet family and right now as an up-and-coming it's an incredible value."
Other suggestions:
Look at the label: "If something is entertaining or someone has gone to the task to make it fun, I think they'll pay attention to what's in the bottle."Look for dust on the bottle: "If they're dusty, there's probably a good reason."
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