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By The Glass Roberto Viernes |
Here’s help in decoding
France’s white wine labelsBelieve it or not, many people choose wine simply by how easy it is to pronounce the name, or by how easy it is to read the label.
I asked one client what she'd like to drink, and without even looking at the wine list she said, "I would like the chardonnay from California please."
It's simple. People want to know what they are drinking. With wines from the New World (anywhere except Europe), it has always been easy to discern what is in the bottle and where it comes from. For example, Beringer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a cabernet sauvignon made by Beringer from Napa Valley -- simple and straightforward.
But how about wines from the Old World? European producers weren't always so market savvy. Instead of labeling their wines with the grape type and growing region, they named them for a famous town or village close by, without even listing the grape. Well, here is a guide to some classic white wines of France to help you decode the labels:
The most popular white wine in the United States is chardonnay. In France, chardonnay has many interpretations: Chablis (sha-blee), Macon-Villages (makon-vee-laj), Pouilly Fuisse (pwee-fwee-say), Meursault (mer-saw), Chassagne-Montrachet (sha-san mon-ra-shay) and Puligny Montrachet (poo-lee-nee mon-ra-shay).
Chablis tends to be the driest and very crisp. A perfect one to try is the 2002 Lavantureax Chablis ($17). It's just full of citrus, very refreshing and perfect for fresh oysters on a half shell. An area of particular value is the Macon-Villages designation. The 2002 Henry Perusset Macon Villages ($13) is a stunner, bursting with rich fruit aroma and so smooth you'll think it's silk
If you like your chardonnay more full-bodied and tropical, try the 2001 Robert-Denogent Pouilly Fuisse "La Croix" ($26). This single-vineyard boasts 50-year-old vines and an awesome array of fruit flavor, perfect with grilled scallops and lobster with drawn butter.
Sauvignon blanc also has a huge following. Here are the French classics that many producers try to emulate: Sancerre (sawn-sair), Pouilly Fume (poo-wee foo-may), Cheverny (shev-ernie) and Graves (grawv).
The best for the money has to be the 2002 Domaine du Salvard Cheverny ($11). It has notes of guava, grapefruit and lime with an intense flavor that will leave you wanting more. A slightly more full-bodied version is the 2002 Minet Pouilly Fume VV($19). The VV stands for Vieilles Vignes or Old Vines (30 to 50 years old). It also stands for even more intense flavor and richness. The next time you're having a clam or crab dip or casserole, try one of these.
The once-popular Chenin blanc has lost some of its glamour, but if you are into a refreshing white wine with hints of honey, peaches and white flowers, this one you should try. Vouvray (voov-ray) and Savennieres (sav-n-yair) are usually dry versions with Bonnezeaux (beau-nez-o) and Coteaux du Layon (co-toe do lie-on) being sweet.
The 2002 Champalou Vouvray ($13) is a winner with all the fixings of classic chenin blanc. The 1997 Domaine de Baumard Coteaux du Layon ($24) is a magically sweet elixir of glacée apricots and honey. Try it with some of your favorite cheeses.
If you are a white wine lover and aren't trying anything from Europe you're missing out on endless opportunities for fun and excitement. The United States produces only about 5 to 7 percent of the wine in the world in any given year, so if you're only drinking domestic wines, you're missing a lot. And you don't have to speak a foreign language to drink these great wines.
Next month I'll help you decode some classic European reds.
Roberto Viernes is wine educator with Southern Wine & Spirits.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to features@starbulletin.com