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The Weekly Eater Nadine Kam |
En Fuego’s three amigos
all fired up on Leeward
sideONE brain, one brawn, one Brad add up to the three amigos behind En Fuego Grill & Poke in the Marketplace at Kapolei. "En Fuego's" a mighty fancy Spanish name for a restaurant most fluent in local plate-lunch lingo, though with an accent gleaned from having explored other culinary worlds.
The brain, according to partners, is Ross Okuhara, who partnered in a downtown restaurant and catering business before trying his luck out West. His rationale: "A lot of businesses are investing out in Kapolei and I thought it was a good idea to follow them. It was an opportunity to start with a growing community.
"Our customers are really friendly, and that's what we were hoping for," he said. "We want to make friends out here."
It makes sense because "fuego," meaning "fire," has other meanings as well, including "hearth," "home" and "vigor," the latter being Todd Tanaka's territory.
He's the "brawn" if only because he's also a martial arts instructor who's not ready to give up his first passion. But since his friends called, he's been there since opening day, Sept. 27, 2003 (he remembers it that well), to pitch in any way he can toward making the operation tick.
The "Brad's" last name is Cruz, and he's an alumnus of The Chef's Table in Hawaii Kai, and Roy's Restaurant. His mentors taught him, not only to work quickly, but to show some flair. His aim is to keep the menu recognizably local, even as he adds hints of other cultures and cuisines. A salmon salad ($7), for instance, with a grilled fillet sitting atop lettuce, with tomato wedges and sliced carrots, is accompanied by a vinaigrette influenced by the soy sauce-and-mustard combo that's a staple at every Chinese restaurant. Little bits of cilantro are added to the sauce -- not enough to overwhelm those who hate Chinese parsley, but definitely enough to add an appreciated dimension for those with educated palates.
I'd compare it to someplace like Kaka'ako Kitchen, though without all KK's decadent desserts.
FL MORRIS / FLMORRIS@STAR-BULLETIN
Owners of En Fuego -- from left, Todd Tanaka, Ross Okuhara and Brad Cruz -- show one of their house specialties, seared garlic ahi. And when they say garlic, that means not breathing on other people for days.
WHILE OKUHARA may have intended to bring an air of elegance to the menu, there's not an ounce of pretension to the place. The atmosphere is strictly come-as-you-are casual for a quick family fast-food sitdown or take-out meal. Basic furnishings don't make it all that comfortable, but families can settle in anyway in front of a TV, especially on "American Idol" nights. The TV reception leaves much to be desired at this point, but anything's better than nothing when you're hungry but can't bear to tear yourself away from the drama of that "AI" competition.
The restaurant's focus is on fresh fish and you'll find several market-price poke options daily, from kim chee ahi to spicy nairagi (striped marlin). If you prefer your fish cooked, there's garlic ahi ($8.49), misoyaki mahimahi ($8.50), teriyaki salmon ($8.99) or for healthy types, ahi tofu patties ($6.50).
Speaking of healthy orientations, all plates come with a choice of white or nutritionally superior brown rice, and likewise, macaroni or tossed salad.
Those who like katsu may appreciate the mochi ahi steak ($7.50), two fresh fillets dredged through a mochiko marinade, then fried for a crisp exterior and moist interior, and finally served with a sweet chili aioli.
Many of these entrée items are also available as sandwiches priced from $5.50 to $7, or for those who like to throw hassle-free parties, as part of a catering menu.
This is the place to pick up garlic chicken ($6.75) that truly lives up to the name, to the point you should avoid talking to people a few days afterward. They serve up a sweet-spicy version as well.
Every burger is actually two burgers that taste homemade. You might even go as far as casting off the bun to better enjoy the beefy flavor. It's $5 for a basic burger with lettuce, tomatoes and onions; $5.75 with Swiss cheese and mushrooms, but I'd ask them to pile on more mushrooms.
There are desserts of andagi and haupia, but after chowing down on fairly large portions, you have to ask yourself if you really need it.
The Marketplace at Kapolei, 590 Farrington Highway C-1 Suite 534 / 674-8805 En Fuego Grill & Poke
Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays to Saturdays, and 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays
Food 
Service Ambience Value Cost: About $15 for two for lunch or dinner
See some past restaurant reviews in the Columnists section.
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
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excellent; very good, exceeds expectations; average; below average.
