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Author mug By The Glass

By Jay Kam


Bordeaux 2000
lives up to the hype


In the spring of 2001, I visited Bordeaux to taste barrel samples of what was already being hyped a great vintage -- 2000 Bordeaux. I was dazzled by the quality of the wines across the board. I've never experienced anything like it. Not 1994 or 1997 Napa. Not 1997 Tuscany. Not any vintage I've ever previewed.

Two years ago I wrote in my company's newsletter that the 2000 Bordeaux is outstanding and may be the most significant vintage since 1982.

After retasting the finished bottled wines now starting to arrive on retailers' shelves, I can confidently say that the 2000 Bordeaux lives up the hype generated by wine critics such as Robert Parker and Wine Spectator.

My father, Allen, who started going to Bordeaux more than 30 years ago and is the pioneer in importing French wines to Hawaii was blown away the first time he tasted a finished bottle of 2000 Chasse Spleen. And for my normally stingy father to give such praise to a wine is rare.

While many of the top wines will cost $300 or more per bottle -- if you're lucky enough to find them -- a ton of super values made by lesser-known producers are available NOW.

I emphasize the word NOW because given such ravenous interest by consumers, who knows how long they will last on store shelves? Many items were sold out before they reached our shelves. All I know is this is one of the all-time great vintages, and now is the opportunity to buy.

Ask any knowledgeable wine collector whether he or she could go back in time and buy more 1947, 1961 or 1982 Bordeaux -- three legendary vintages -- upon release and I bet you everyone would do it. It's the same with the 2000 Bordeaux. You'll be kicking yourself if you don't buy any, and if you've already bought, you'll be kicking yourself if you don't buy more.

Here are some moderately priced, ready-to-drink-now 2000 Bordeauxes that will blow you away.

2000 Vieux Chateau St. Andre -- Montagne St. Emilion ($19.99): Made by Jean-Claude Berrouet, the winemaker at Petrus. One of my favorite barrel samples among the value-priced samples. Rich, dark berry fruit with just the right amount of French oak. Full and intense, but also possessing some softness and elegance.

2000 La Fleur St. Georges -- Laland de Pomerol ($19.99): I have no empirical proof, but it seems that every customer we've recommended this to has come back for more. Just an awesome merlot-based wine. Fruity nose. Soft, gentle and elegant. And if you can afford it, take a step up and buy its big brother, 2000 La Fleur du Bouard ($36). It is money worth spent.

2000 Chasse Spleen -- Haut Medoc ($32.99): Smoke, earth and fruit all show well together. Medium- to full-bodied, this is the best Chasse Spleen in many years!

2000 Yvon Mau Exigence ($17.99): Made by one of the most reputable negociants in Bordeaux, this is a California-like wine. Lots of fruit, lots of oak, lots of flavor -- and all integrated in a smooth, harmonious package. Ready to drink now.


Jay Kam is president of Vintage Wine Cellar.




This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
Write to features@starbulletin.com

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